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Sydney Time
Copyright
© Ric Einstein 2008
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Torbreck
2002 The Struie Jan 06
After the very disappointing showing of this wine during the Great 2002 Shiraz
Taste Off, I decided to open a bottle from my cellar to see if the wine did have
Brett, or if the one we tried at the event was just a one-off bad bottle.
Bouquet shows very earthy characters with abundant coffee vanillin oak and dark
chocolate over just as dark fruit. Fruit is deeply-seated but the finish is very
dry and the acid comes across as a touch steely. Black fruit flavours with
olive, coffee essence, a touch of menthol and earthy mushroom characters are
enjoyable and finish with good persistence, but the wine is not as harmonious as
it was on release and has changed a huge amount since I first tried it almost
two years ago.
Does the wine have Brett in it? Quite possibly! Brett levels do vary from bottle
to bottle and this bottle did show a steely edge that I often find in Brett
affected wines. It is also important to remember that heat is the bitter enemy
of Brett and can make it bloom very quickly. The bottle sent by Brian to
Rutherglen for the tasting, would have experienced hot weather during transport
for a couple of days.
Copyright © Ric Einstein 2006
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