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Sydney Time
Copyright
© Ric Einstein 2009
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Kalleske
2004 Johann Georg Shiraz Aug 06
After my last experience with a young Kalleske wine, I decanted this at 10
o'clock and did not look at it for six hours; and even then, it didn't really
start hitting its straps until 7 p.m.
The nose is black; blackcurrant, white pepper, charcoal/toasted oak, aniseed and
menthol; there's a lot of activity in the bouquet. The striking structure and
balance of this wine immediately captures one's undivided attention. Controlled
and measured dusty tannins combine with fresh acid and deep, strong fruit to
form a full-bodied, firm, solid and tight wine with a refined complexity that is
already showing signs of harmony. The fruit is completely ripe and off-sweet,
showing blackberry, charcoal, blackcurrant, dark chocolate, coffee with a touch
of eucalyptus infused cigar box character. Once the wine opened fully, the
palate was dominated by rich dark chocolate and plum that completely
filled the palate with a very attractive mouth feel and finished with incredible
lengths and persistence. A tip-top quality wine, it's rated as Excellent with
*** for value and shouldn't be touched until at least 2014, by which time the
rating will probably improve. The last vintage of this wine sold out incredibly
quickly, and from my perspective this one's better, so if you are contemplating
buying it you had better get in fast.
Copyright © Ric Einstein 2006
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