Buller 2004 Valerie Mondeuse Sept 05

 

This new label is named after the matriarch of the Buller family, Andrew Buller's mother in honour of her contribution to both the family business and the Rutherglen wine region. As befitting an unusual grape variety, the bouquet of this wine is interesting and shows floral dark fruit aromas with mocha, chocolate and earthy nuances; unlike the patriarch who is as bright as a button, the nose of this wine seems a bit dumb, almost reticent. Despite its 17.5% alcohol, there is no sign of alcohol on the nose, or excess of warmth on the palate. A moorish wine, with spice, chocolate and black fruits on the uptake, the flavour concentration and power is fantastic, there is enough to knock the tartar off the teeth. Solidly backed by dusty tannins, the wine will definitely be better after a few years in the cellar, although the attractiveness of the primary fruit means it can be enjoyed now too. Despite its size and alcohol, there is not a huge amount of excess weight. Rated as an Most Enjoyable Dry Port with *** for value $39; it certainly is different and worth a shot but you had better get in quick, only about 2,500 bottles have been made and most are already sold.