© Gilbert Labour

The recently held 2005 Murrumbateman Cool Climate Wine Show with the Wine Press Club of Canberra as major sponsor, reflected the current state of wine affairs in the cool climate areas of Australia. The results, to a degree echoed those already obtained at other recent shows.

The judges’ panel chaired by Garry Wall consultant oenologist and chief winemaker of King Valley Wines and including Bill Sneddon Chief Wine maker of Allandale Wines and Gilbert Labour Wine Master of the Wine Press Club of Canberra; they awarded 10 Gold, 32 Silver and 104 Bronze medals.

The Gold medals in the red sections all went to Cabernet Sauvignon dominant wines. Disappointingly, the Shirazes across all categories were deemed unworthy of Gold, hence no Shiraz Trophy this year. Similarly, no Gold or Trophies were awarded in the Pinot Noir and Merlot classes.

Refreshingly, a 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon Rose from Centennial Vineyard in the Bowral area won unanimous approval for a Gold medal. As Gary Wall commented, it was a wine intentionally made as a Rose rather than as an afterthought from run offs.

Surprisingly, there were only 5 entries in the 2005 Dry Wooded Whites section. This is perhaps reflective of the increasing costs of producing such wines at competitive level, especially for smaller wineries. The 2005 Sauvignon Blanc section merited a Trophy of its own due to the high numbers and quality of entries.  Is this variety the much awaited “New Chardonnay”? The Trophy was deservedly won by the Gapsted Ballerina Canopy King Valley Sauvignon Blanc.

By far, the most rewarded wines were the 2005 Dry Whites sections where all 3 Gold medals were awarded to Rieslings… an accurate reflection of the strength of the current vintage and the wineries’ increasing improvement in the demands of vineyard and winemaking requirements of that variety so as to retain maximum character, freshness and purity of fruit. The locally produced Helm’s Reserve Riesling 2005 showed all of these attributes and was awarded the treble of Best Riesling of Show, Best White Wine of Show and ultimately the Best Wine of Show. This latter is no small achievement, as this accolade is usually bestowed upon a red wine. It is an Alsatian style Riesling, early picked and fermented to bone dryness with a long mouth-puckering clean acid finish. Not a wine for early consumption or easy quaffing, it will live on for years.

In his Chairman’s report, Garry Wall reinforced the need for improvement in vineyard management beyond the obligatory spraying and canopy control. He emphasised the need for more stringent site selection across all vineyards. n red wines, Wall lamented poor tannin control both in barrel and skins management which cost quite a few red wines, albeit endowed with good underlying fruit, significant points. He recommended judicious use of micro oxygenation and controlled pump-overs amongst other methods.

Brettanomyces infection, a significant problem mentioned in previous chairman’s reports, once again reared its ugly head. Although the current red releases showed a significantly less degree of contamination, the older wines which were affected a few years ago and resubmitted this year, had worsened. Garry Wall highlighted the need for a more stringent sulphur protocol both in vineyards and in the barrels to eliminate this problem.

Another point of interest was the ever increasing proportions of wines under screw caps. 97% of 2005 vintage white wines and 55% of 2004 reds were under screw cap… a considerable increase from last year, especially in the reds.   This resulted in a greatly decreased incidence of cork taint and random oxidation; it is a positive portent of the future of Australian wines. Wall concluded by congratulating Chief Steward Duncan Leslie and the committee for one of the best organized shows that he had experienced as a judge.

The wineries from the ACT district and surrounding regions to receive awards were:

AD & DL Pearce, Ainsworth Estate, Barton Estate Wines, Centennial Vineyards, Chalkers Crossing, Fischer W & J, Gallagher Wines,  Greenbrier Park Vineyard, Grove Estate, Helm Wines, Hillbrook Estate Wines,  Kamberra Wine Centre, Long Rail Gully Wines, Michelson & Fischer, Pialligo Estate, Shaw Vineyard Estate, Shepherds Moon, Southern Highlands Wines, Tallagandra Hill,  Torandale Wines, Yarrh Wines.

The results were:

Best Riesling sponsored by the Viticultural Society of the Southern Tablelands

Helm Wines [ACT] Premium Riesling 2005

Best Chardonnay sponsored by the Murrumbateman Agricultural & Progress Association

Kirrihill Estates [Adelaide Hills] Chardonnay 2004

Best Sauvignon Blanc sponsored by Powerley’s Pumping & Irrigation 

Gapsted Wines King Valley [Vic] Ballerina Canopy Sauvignon Blanc 2005

Best Sparkling wine sponsored by Crisp Glass Australia

Kamberra Vintage 2000 Pinot noir Chardonnay Pinot Meunier

Best Cabernet Sauvignon sponsored by Mount Nanima Vineyard

Ladbrook Grove [SA] Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2002

Best Red Wine Other Varieties sponsored by Big & Little Home loans

McWilliams Brands of Coonawarra ‘Patrons’ CSM 2001

Best Wine Bordeaux Style sponsored by Shaw Vineyards Estate

Koomooloo Wines Phillip Shaw No 17 Merlot Cabernet Franc 2004

Best Red Wine of Show sponsored by the Wine Press Club of Canberra

Ladbroke Grove Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2002

Best White Wine of Show sponsored by The Canberra Club

Helm Wines Premium Riesling 2005

Best Wine of Show sponsored by the Wine Press Club of Canberra

Helm Wines  Premium Riesling 2005

The other Gold medals were awarded to:

Brian Barry 2005 Riesling, Centennial Vineyards 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon Rose,  McWilliams 2003 Riesling. 

For a catalogue of results contact: Murrumbateman Cool Climate Show

PO Box 3298

Murrumbateman  NSW  2582

Email:   mccws@bigpond.com

Ph  02 6227 0358   Fax  02  6227 0358