Readers Write
Sydney Time
Copyright © Ric Einstein 2008
Murrumbateman Cool Climate Wine Show 2006
(30 October)© Gilbert Labour
The show which culminated in a Trophy presentation dinner at Shaw’s Vineyards Restaurant rewarded over 400 entries with a medal; that a rate of around 40%.
Twelve gold medals were awarded in an overall haul of 161medals with quite a few gracing the ACT & regions wines. The MCCWS comes hot on the heels of the Canberra Regional Wine Show which was chaired by the legendary Ian McKenzie. Many of the results, awards and comments by the respective chairmen were replicated in both shows.
The judging panelof the MCCVWS comprised Garry Wall CEO and Chief winemaker of King Valley Wines, Michael Cope-Williams Chief winemaker of Gapsted Wines and Gilbert Labour from the Wine Press Club of Canberra.
Mr Wall commented on the overall improvement in the quality of the wines as reflected by the results. He praised the much reduced incidence of red wines affected by the Brettanomyces fungus which has plagued many entries in previous years.
He did however note that the 2006 vintage has been a significant challenge in white wines especially the floral varieties due to a combination of inclement weather at the crucial times and to high Baume levels at picking.
Wall also noted that there was a disturbing amount of pinking and oxidation in the current vintage of white wines. These problems are, apparently easily prevented and should be definitely fixed prior to bottling.
He also noted that there was a distinctive mismanagement of phenolics in both white and especially, red wines which showed overworked ferments and aggressive tannin structure. These detracted from and penalised otherwise good fruit.
He feels that, just because Australia can produce grapes with high sugar and tannin levels, that these are not necessarily desirable characteristics in the finished wines.
To paraphrase Wall, “ Because we can grow them ripe, big and juicy does not mean that we should make them so. “He concluded that this has been one of the best organised and run shows that he has experienced due to the efforts of Chief Steward Duncan Leslie and organiser Virginia Rawlings and her team.
It was refreshing for a local 2006 Rose from Mt Marguleux [ Yass ] to win a Gold medal. The judges praised the fact that it was made in true Rose style rather as an afterthought of red wine processing.
Local winemaker Brian Johnson’s 2005 McKellar Ridge Cabernet Sauvignon / Franc replicated its recent success at the Canberra Regional Show by taking out another Gold Medal in its class.
Many other local and regional wineries achieved medal status. However the crowning glory was bestowed upon local district’s Rob & Kay Howell’s Jeir Creek 2004 Botrytised Semillon Sauvignon Blanc as Best White Wine of Show against a redoubtable field from all over Australia.
The Trophy winners were:
Sponsored by:
Best Wine of Show The Big and Little Homeloans
2001 Ladbroke Grove Coonawarra Cabernet Merlot Compadres Blend
Best White Wine of Show The Canberra Club
2004 Jeir Creek Botrytis Semillon Sauvignon Blanc
Best Red Wine of Show The Wine Press Club of Canberra
2001 Ladbroke Grove Coonawarra Cabernet Merlot Compadres Blend
Best Riesling The Viticultural Society of Southern Tablelands
2004 Gracebrook [ King Valley ] Riesling
Best Chardonnay Murrumbateman Agricultural & Progress Association
2003 Kirrihill Estates Adelaide Hills Chardonnay
Best Shiraz The Big and Little Homeloans
2005 Winburndale Solitary Shiraz
Best Cabernet Sauvignon Mount Nanima Vineyard
McWilliams 2004 Brands Laira Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon
Best Pinot Noir Crisp Glass Australia
2005 Ashton Hills Vineyard Reserve Pinot Noir
Best Cabernet Blend The Wine Press Club of Canberra
2001 Ladbroke Grove Coonawarra Cabernet Merlot Compadres Blend
Best of Other Red Blends Shaw Vineyards Estate
2003 Pyrenees Estate Shiraz Viognier
Trophies for Best Merlot, Best Sparkling wine & Best Dry White wine [Un wooded] other varieties, were not awarded.
End of official report.
Addendum: Strictly my personal observations.
A glimpse behind the scenes…
Regarding our immediate region, it’s astounding why some growers who proclaim to have successfully completed either the CSU or Roseworthy Vini / Viticulture diplomas or degrees would choose to plant some varieties, let alone produce wines from these varieties and submit them for judging at shows. Some varieties are simply not meant to be successfully grown in some areas. Not as a commercial concern anyhow.
The unknowing traveller who is asked to fork out around $ 20 for these products which may well have tasted ok at cellar door, would not be rewarded for their investment. Furthermore, these buyers will perhaps denigrate that product within their circles. As the saying goes “ 1 happy customer might tell 3 others but an unhappy one will definitely tell 24 “.
As a non industry-related judge, I look at rewarding wines rather than punishing them as seems to be the worrying trend with winemaker-laden judging panels these days. When a wine is reluctantly and generously awarded 36 points or less, it denotes a serious problem. And yet those products grace some shelves and mail order lists.
Then, there is the issue of small growers trusting their lovingly tendered grapes to be vinified by wineries who also produce wines under their own labels. Where does the loyalty and attention to detail lie ?
On a positive note, it’s refreshing to see a slow but definite resurgence of rose wines. The awarded ones were made in true style rather than as a mistake rectified by blending, or as a left-over afterthought or, heaven forbid !!! as a run-off precursor to red wines.
Gilbert Labour
Feel free to submit your comments!
From: Paul Starr
10/31/2006 20:57:26 Gilbert's personal comments need a bit of elaboration, I reckon. Specifically:- which are the varieties that should not be grown in cool climate regions he is referring to? Cabernets? Alternate varietals?
- is he suggesting a contract winemaking conflict of interest problem behind many of the wines entered, or just a lack of attention being paid by the makers (or a lack of bolshie clients)?
- Judges of whatever kind need to get over the notion that there are single "true styles" of wines like rose. Yes, growing the grapes just for rose is one style or practice. But saignee (bleed off) styles and practices are also legitimate, historically-supported and capable of producing good wines.
From: Chris Robinson
11/01/2006 06:41:23 Some interesting comments that deserve further reflection. First, the use of technically oriented show judges has always mystified me. In Asia show judging is usually done by a mixture of industry professional and winemakers. Invariably opinions are on occasion strongly divided on what is acceptable to the consumer. For example brett can be at such low levels that the average consumer is hardly likely to notice or care and may even like its aromatics. I recently saw tasting notes where 3 techie judges not only found brett in all 12 wines but failed to even be consistent in which wines had brett. Are we falling for the new new thing here - and are winemakers seeing "commies under beds". I think so. As for $20 spent on some new varietal I say more of it, even if there are questions about suitability. If you listened to experts we would not be growing Italian varietals in Victoria. Viva la difference!From: Murray
11/04/2006 18:15:02 Quote Gilbert: 'Then, there is the issue of small growers trusting their lovingly tendered grapes to be vinified by wineries who also produce wines under their own labels. Where does the loyalty and attention to detail lie?' Unquote.Gilbert, I think this unjust, and unless things have changed dramtically since I worked in the wineries of Australia, the winemakers making wine under contract do indeed take great care of their customers' wines. Apart from their legal Duty of Care, I have found professional pride to be at a very high quotient in our industry.
Then there is the responsibilty of the owner of the wine. To simply supply grapes and take no further interest during manufacture, is abrogating responsibiity. So the deal may well be two sided - the owner having to assume his/her own duty of care. After all, they have to sell the eventual wine!
In almost 60 years I find that each of us tends to judge the conduct of others in the manner we would do so ourselves a comment such as this implies a great deal as to your own attitude to life.
