The 2006 West Australian Tour Diaries

 

Chapter One - Introduction

 

It's been three years since I travelled to the wine regions of Western Australia, so this trip was overdue. When I decided to do it, I asked my good mate Brian Handreck, (aka Red Bigot and the Pie King's apprentice) if he would like to tag along, and as he is now retired and his planned house renovations had not started yet, he agreed to join me.

 

As age is starting to creep up on me, I cannot sustain the frenetic pace that I did in previous years, so when planning this trip, although a number of appointments were made, plenty of time was allowed at each winery so that we would not be rushed. Besides providing a more relaxed pace, this extra time has allowed more in-depth stories to be written about many of the wineries visited.

 

Unlike my first tour to WA, this time making appointments was far easier and the wineries seemed more receptive to spending time with me. Of all the wineries I contacted, only one did not respond, which is a great result. The majority of the wineries visited were carefully selected, based on either their reputation or feedback I had received over the years. Naturally enough, we also visited a few unknowns on spec. On these trips, time is precious and you normally cannot afford to waste it.

 

The reception I received from the wineries visited, without exception, was fantastic. Every single one of them gave me as much time as needed and they were only too happy to open anything I wanted to look at. Many of the wineries were also kind enough to open unreleased wines, which will give readers a heads up on what's coming down the track. I would like to be publicly express my sincere gratitude and thanks to all the wineries for their time, cooperation, and hospitality; it is very much appreciated by me, and the information gained will be an invaluable information source for Tour Diary readers.

 

In previous tour diaries, it has become tradition to start off with a vintage summary, which puts the story in perspective. This Tour Diary breaks that tradition and although a brief vintage summary has been provided, there is also a brief overview of the tour as well as some very pointed “myth busting” that exposes much of the marketing bovine manure surrounding this region. It's worthwhile reading the Tour Diary Summary before continuing any further.

 

This Tour Diary will be broken down into chapters, which will be posted in (hopefully) weekly instalments on torbwine.com. All the tasting notes will be individually uploaded in the Tasting Note Data Base for future easy searching.

 

As usual, the TORB Rating System has been used throughout these notes. If you are unfamiliar with the TORB Rating System, it worth spending a minute or two becoming familiar with it; click here for details. It is important to understand that I am a very tough marker.

Day Zero - Tuesday

 

Unlike most previous journeys when I travel with Brian, this time we got together at my place 24 hours in advance.  The reason for this change was that Brian had been to Sydney for a few days and Andrea dropped him off at my place on her way back home to Canberra. 

 

As it was a hot day, when five o’clock arrived it was time to wet our whistles, and befitting the occasion, I opened up a bottle of Leasingham1995 Classic Clare Sparkling Shiraz.  I have now drunk a few bottles of this wine and all of them have been terrific.  It must have been damn hot; the bottle seemed to mysteriously evaporate in record time. 

 

On many occasions when Brian and Andrea have stayed at my place and we have driven past the local Thai restaurant in Moss Vale, Brian has always said, “we must try that place.”  For some strange reason we never get there, probably because we are eating at more salubrious establishments, so this was the perfect opportunity for us to try it.  Sparkling Shiraz tends to go well with spicy Thai food, so we took a bottle of Cofield 2000 Sparkling Shiraz.  This wine seemed fairly simple in comparison to the Leasingham, but with the spicy food it was a reasonable match.  For entrees we ordered two plates of mixed starters, which included moneybags, Thai spring rolls, Thai fish cakes, and a number of other goodies.  Brian was impressed (which his high praise as he is very critical when it comes to Thai food,) and thought the Thai fish cakes were as good as you could find anywhere.

 

For a main course we one had of my favourite dishes; a red duck curry.  Although it’s only mildly spiced, they are very generous with the amount of duck, and the flavour is superb.  For the next course Brian chose a warm chicken salad (Larb Gai). Brian uses this dish as a quality indicator because apparently it is very difficult to prepare perfectly.  Brian thought it was okay but it did not contain a perfect balance of sweet and sour, hot and spicy, and salt that Brian was looking for: he also felt it lacked heat, was a fraction too sweet and didn’t seem to include any Khao Koor (ground toasted rice).  Nevertheless I enjoyed it and at the end of the night our plates were clean.

 

It was then back to my place for an early night because tomorrow was going to be a big day: just before Brian said goodnight he said “If you go to bed early, you will probably wake up at four o’clock.”  Bastard!    He put clappers on me because at 4.15 am I woke up and could not go back to sleep again.

 

Day One – Wednesday – The Trip West

 

We were packed and ready, and on the road just after eight o’clock.  The first port of call was my shop to drop off Sam the poodle. The two big dogs were dropped off at Lynne’s place. Lynne was looking after all three of them but Sam being an obnoxious, insecure little poodle had to be left with Lynne personally.

 

From there it was an easy drive down to the outskirts of Sydney but unfortunately we hit slow traffic at the start of the M5 motorway, so it was just as well we left early.  Upon entering the long-term car park I quickly calculated the cost of parking had increased by 50% since my last trip.  I was not impressed with the greedy bastards at Macquarie Bank that lease the airport, but no doubt their shareholders are happy.

 

One of the motivations of getting to the airport early is to try and obtain a seat with lots of legroom, preferably exit-row seats over the wing.  When we asked for them, unfortunately we were informed they were taken but there were a few spare seats available, and they would make sure that there was an empty seat left between us.  When we finally got on the plane, I was surprised by the generous legroom on this particular aeroplane.  It looked like it was new, but unlike most budget carriers my knees were not wrapped around my ears and there was plenty of room between my knees and the seat in front.  The seating was a pleasant change.  The five-hour flight to Perth was uneventful and luckily I was able to grab and hour of shut eye. We arrived in Perth and although my watch is said it was 2.30, in reality my body was telling me it was 5.30.

 

We took a minibus from the airport to our hotel.  We had booked a two-bedroom serviced apartment in the Aarons All Suite complex which cost $190 a night of the two of us and it seemed to be reasonably value.  The large bedroom contained a double bed, and the other bedroom contained two singles. In a fit of madness, Brian allowed me to have the double bed.

 

................ View of the WACA from our room

 

I don’t know what it is when Brian and I go away, but one of us always needs to go clothes shopping. On this occasion, I was in desperate need of some shorts so we decided to head downtown to find some.  We went into a number of yuppie shops, jeans type shops, sports shop and boutique shops, but nothing was appropriate.  Earlier on, Brian had recommended we try Myers, but for some strange reason, I was reluctant to go there.  Finally after trying David Jones and a stack of other menswear stores, I relented and tried Myers. Much to Brian’s disgust, and many “I told you so’s” later, I found an abundance of shorts and purchased four pairs.  We then made a beeline back to the hotel so that we could have a nap prior to going out to dinner.

 

As it was still warm and we were not quite sure how far away the restaurant was, we decided to catch a taxi; easier said than done even though we were in one of the main streets of Perth and it was well after peak hour. We noticed the taxis have a very cute habit in Perth, they regularly forget to turn off their for hire lights, so we kept on hailing taxis with people in them. We eventually got to the restaurant about 15 minutes late, but thankfully we were not the last to arrive.

 

The dinner had been organised by David Pearson, a young local Perth lad (well he is almost a year younger than I am, ) who is known as Davo by his mates. I have known Davo through the wine forums for many years, and first met him in person three years ago on my last trip to Perth. To say that Davo does not suffer fools gladly is an understatement; but Davo is no fool having obtained his medical degree as a mature age student, after doing all sorts of interesting jobs from farming to fishing. Although Davo is not a red bigot, and enjoys a glass of white wine from time to time, the majority of his wine consumption is on the darker side so it was almost safe to have him with us for a three day long weekend.

 

Davo had arranged for a gathering of 14 locals to join us at Romany restaurant in Northbridge. By the time we got there, the first bottle of wine had been opened and they were into it.

 

The first wine opened was a Houghtons 1995 Show Reserve Shiraz. It was beautifully poised; very clean with lots of plum and liquorice; it maintains fairly good length and was coming together beautifully and is probably a few years off its peak. Very classy and rated as Excellent, I was glad I tried this wine is I didn't have to sacrifice one from my cellar to see how it is progressing.

 

The second wine was a Peel Estate Sparkling Shiraz which was very unusual in that it has virtually no residual sweetness whatsoever.  It's also a little lighter than many others. It was okay, but didn't grab me.

 

The third wine (served blind,) exhibited loads of earthy chocolate characters on the bouquet. The palate showed overly abundant fresh and noticeable acid, chocolate, cherry, a little mint, a touch of capsicum (which became more pronounced as the wine opened up) and cigar box. Overall it was not a bad wine and probably would have been enhanced by food. Rated as Recommended, the wine was unveiled as Woodlands 2001 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Kevin but in all honesty, I can't say that I liked it very much. The acid overshadows the fruit and although it may last forever, I'm not sure if it will actually improve greatly although if you believe Halliday et al, it will.

 

The next wine, which was a Chestnut Grove 1999 Merlot was served un-masked. Considering it is seven years old, for an Australian Merlot it is holding up extremely well; the acid is still fresh and the tannins provide good length. Abundant chocolate and mulberry flavours; the wine is a little showy but most enjoyable and still has years left. Rated as Highly Recommended; the wine won four trophies shortly after release and cost $25 at that time; the current vintage sells for around $50.

 

Although the next wine was served blind, I knew what it was as I had brought it; it was a Jaspers Hill 1995 Georgia’s Paddock Shiraz. When the wine was opened, I was confident it was not sound as it had an unusual pong that didn't belong. Whilst I wasn't sure what it was, I suspected DMS; with a little aeration it seemed to blow off and reduce to a level where the wine was drinkable. The fruit was good, with a hint of pepper and oodles of plum; the alcohol was nicely in balance and it had a reasonable length finish. Although it was received reasonably, I was not at all happy with it and the reason became obvious after it had been opened for about an hour; the wet hessian character of cork taint started to emerge.

 

The next wine was very sweet and didn't have very much depth to it. It was a Dalyup River Estate 2000 Esperance Shiraz and the wine was brought along as a curio, as apparently getting grapes to ripen in this area is next to impossible. Not rated as I don't want to be rude.

 

The next wine had a bouquet that was all mint, liquorice and chocolate. On the palate, it was a very youthful wine with pronounced acid and whilst the fruit was not quite as pronounced, it had excellent persistence, and was well backed by very fine tannins, which were softening nicely; the wine should be very long-lived. On the palate, it seemed to be a very good wine with loads of liquorice flavour, pepper, and if I would have had to guess, I would have thought a Cabernet Shiraz blend. Rated as Excellent, this beautiful wine, which was the best wine so far, was unveiled as a Moss Wood 1995 Cabernet Sauvignon.

 

The next bottle of wine was almost exactly the same, what a coincidence; two people brought the same bottle of wine to an offline, however it was interesting to see the bottle variation between the two examples. The second bottle had been cellared in a warmer cellar which resulted in the wine being a lot more open with softer, rounder tannins and the fruit made the wine seem like it was older. Davo thought the second bottle was fuller and more enjoyable.

 

The next wine was Brian's; it had a wonderful sweet nose; the palate showed lovely, rich, ripe tannins with glorious soft fruit characteristics. Silky smooth with lots of liquorice, it was one of the best wines of the night, and from my perspective the wine of the night. It glided down the palate with consummate ease; rated as Excellent (damn near Outstanding) it was unveiled as Bests 1994 Thompson Family Shiraz.

 

The next wine showed an incredible amount of mint on the bouquet with abundant varietal Cabernet characters. It was lifted to the point of almost having a touch of VA and the bouquet was floral. A very youthful wine with loads of chewy tannins, it had loads of primary fruit characters and with the food, the acidity seemed to be searing and clashed with it, however without it, the acid was balanced; the persistent was excellent with flavours of musk, violets and plums. Rated as Highly Recommended, the wine was unveiled as a Voyager Estate 1994 Tom Price Cabernet Merlot.

 

The next wine was obviously a Cabernet or Cabernet blend, with youthful primary fruit, the colour was also bright and youthful; it showed more earthy and chocolate characters than many of the other previous wines but also showed some green flavours. It certainly had a big doughnut hole and a fair whack of acid. This wine is way too young to drink and needs a big sleep in the dark cellar, and with time it should improve. Rated as Recommended now, I was as gob smacked as everybody else when it was unveiled as another bottle of Woodlands 2001 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Kevin.

 

 

The next wine was served un-masked; it was a Willespie 1999 Shiraz. It had a sweet candied nose, with liquorice all sorts and a touch of spice. The palate showed attractive flavours of liquorice, pepper and plum. A very youthful wine that needs more time, the tannins are still prominent. It also seems a very ripe with some residual sugar. Rated as Recommended.

 

As my bottle of Jaspers Hill was a dud, I served another blind wine as a backup. It was a Noons 2001 Eclipse which was brought along more as a curiosity than anything else. I also thought many of the WA people may not have had the opportunity to try the wine. It was vininfanticide but as a number of people had not tried the label, it was worthwhile.

 

The next wine was served blind by Brian and was finally unveiled as a Seppelt's 1996 Great Western Shiraz; so much for this being a WA Cabernet night (us interlopers from the East did state we were bringing non WA wines.) A lovely wine, the fruit was still very fresh and showing slight peppery characters, plum and chocolate; it still has a fair way to go. Rated as Excellent.

 

For an entree, I had grilled prawns and unlike most other restaurants that serves six small prawns, this serving had twelve fairly reasonably sized prawns stacked up. It was almost a main course in itself. The person next to me had a school of whitebait piled high on her plate and I have never seen a starter portion this large. For a main course, I had spaghetti pescatore which was terrific, but the serving was also humongous. When it came to desert, we didn't have very much choice as the kitchen had already closed, not that they bothered to warn us. I don't often eat ice cream, but love Italian Gelato and had a couple of scoops; a plumber's plunger was all that was lacking, and would have been very helpful to pack the food down into my not so little tummy. The total cost was a whopping $40.50 a head including corkage; bargain!!

 

The best two wines of the night were the Bests Thompson and the Moss Wood. It was great to meet so many new local faces, and reacquaint myself with a few of the people that I'd met on the last trip.

 

We decided to walk back to our hotel and said goodnight to Davo at the local railway station. It was meant to be goodnight and not good bye, as he was going to join us in Margaret River on Saturday morning. Time off for him was now easier for him to arrange, as he had recently sold his practice and had moved into a medical centre. Over dinner, he regaled us with stories of what he had done with his ill gotten loot; a long overseas holiday and a new Jeep which he was obviously very proud to own.

 

By the time we got back to the hotel, it was 11:30 p.m. local time but I was whacked as my body was telling me it was 2:30 a.m. and I had been up for twenty two and a half hours. I decided to take a sleeping pill before bed, as the last thing I wanted to do was wake up at 5 a.m. (Sydney time) which would have only given me two and a half hours sleep. It worked marvels and I woke up at ten to seven; and unheard of experience, I must be on holidays or something.

Day Two – Thursday – Down to Margaret River

After having a shower and checking my e-mail, Brian and I headed out for breakfast. Right near the hotel was little place called the Shiraz Café, but as attractive as the name sounded, we headed for a little place up the road called The Sisters. We ordered toasted ham, cheese and tomato sandwiches and whilst they were cooked well, the coffee he was nothing to write home about. Brian ordered a short black coffee, and when I saw the size of the cups next to them, which were reasonably small/medium, I ordered a long black. Unfortunately, I didn't realise that when you ordered a long black, they used a mug-a-chino sized cup for that purpose. Bloody hell, I could've bathed in it.

        That's a ridiculously long black espresso coffee

 

Brian headed back to the hotel, and I walked exactly one block to pick up our car from Avis, which had by far and away the best rates. I was informed that unfortunately the car style we booked was not available, and would I like an upgrade? (Is Bugs a Bunny!)  I was given the choice of a Nissan four-wheel-drive Patrol or a Toyota Tarago so I opted for the people-moving bus rather than the truck.  Great, we now have a car that is big enough to have a party in.  Luckily the seats fold down and are big enough to sleep on, so if Davo gets to obstreperous, we can make him sleep in the car. 

 

The drive out of Perth was interesting because Brian was navigating and we only took two wrong turns.  (Brian:  I thought Ric knew where he was going; it was only three years ago he was last here!  Ric:  But I didn't take the same route out of town, that's why I needed a bloody navigator.)  There is a freeway from the edge of the city but unfortunately due to road works, the speed limit was sixty to eighty km/h for much of the journey.  Apparently they are putting a light rail system in between Perth and Mandurah, and this was the reason for the many sections where our speed was substantially reduced.

 

The entire strip next to the highway between Perth and Mandurah is Lego-land.  Tiny little boxes heaped on tiny little boxes; which in turn are heaped on more tiny little boxes.  Tiny plots of land with big houses and not a tree in sight; basically because there is no room for trees. 

 

As I had mentioned previously, Brian was navigating, so it came as no great surprise when there was a squeal of brakes just before Mandurah, as I had almost belatedly spotted the turnoff to our first winery, Peel Estate.

 

Although I have not drunk a huge amount of wines from this producer, most of what I have tried had been impressive and in particular, the Shiraz is usually a very good wine. It is a fairly small winery that was started by Will Nairn in 1973. Every year, Will is game enough to host a (blind) Great Shiraz Tasting which pits his wine against 50 or 60 of the best Shiraz available. The wines tasted are all six years old and the public are invited to attend and vote for their favourite tipple. Our mate Davo never misses this one.

 

Peel Estate 2001 Cabernet Sauvignon sells for $30 a bottle or $24 by the case at cellar door. A dusty, varietal nose: it’s brooding with dark blackcurrant fruit, cigar box, herbs and chocolatey/vanillin oak characters. Attractive! Clean as a whistle, the fruit is savoury and off-sweet with slight undertones of sweet berry fruit below. There is a touch of capsicum, with loads of cigar box and chocolate on the finish. Fine, drying tannins, youthful acid and deep, persistent fruit combine to form a muscular-weight wine with a supple consistency, solid structure and well-developed complexity. The fruit is great and the finish persistent. Rated as Highly Recommended with **** for value (based on the case price) the wine should mature around 2008 and beyond.

 

They grow a superior brand of cobweb at Peel

 

Peel Estate 1999 Shiraz sells for $36 a bottle or $28.80 by the case. The volatile nose that seemed like it was almost oxidised; Brian thought that it was the style but the second freshly open bottle was broody, very earthy, and showed chocolate. (Oxidised wine at cellar door, ranging from a minor amount to being completely undrinkable was a major feature on this trip.) The tannins were attractive, the acid lively and very noticeable, but the fruit seemed to be a little green and unripe, although the finish was persistent. Muscular-weight with a supple consistency and solid structure, the wine is not a particularly good look and rated as Agreeable with ** for value. Come back when they release the 2000 Shiraz, which should not be far away.

 

Once we passed Mandurah, the road down to Bunbury was relatively good with a two lane divided road most of the way.  The speed limit on this section was 110 so it is an easy drive.

 

We arrived at Bunbury at 12 o'clock and as it was lunchtime, and we hadn't had morning coffee, we were both looking forward to a good cup. 

 

Unfortunately when we drove into the city centre finding somewhere for a good cup of coffee was not easy, but knowing that the Subway in Bowral has a good espresso machine I was naive enough to think the Subway in Bunbury would also have espresso coffee.  Wrong!  So whilst the subs were okay there was no coffee. We then walked through the facilities looking for a coffee shop and were unable to find anything, other than a greasy spoon.  We inquired at the next-door shop (LiquorLand) if they knew where there was any anywhere to have coffee, and the answer was, "the shop next door sells it but we are not sure what it's like.”  With a recommendation like that, we decided to give up on the coffee idea.  The other amazing thing about this very large shopping centre was that there were no public toilets.  Once again we asked at LiquorLand and were told the only toilet was actually located in take-away chicken shop.  Amazing!  I don't know how they can build such a large shopping centre and not provide public conveniences.

 

The town after Bunbury was Capel, and this time Brian was awake and gave me plenty of warning for the turnoff to Capel Vale. I hadn't been here before, and haven't tried many of their wines, so I was looking forward to this visit as they have a reasonably solid reputation. Started in 1974, the winery is family owned and run. Like many of the wineries in this region, it has a restaurant but although we were there during lunchtime, that section of the facility was completely empty.

 

The winemaking philosophy is to make intensely fruit driven, complex, powerful, yet elegant wines, from the best regions in Western Australia. The winery has a fairly large selection of wine, but as we were restricted for time before our first scheduled appointment, we only tried five of them.

 

Capel Vale 2003 Sangiovese sells for $16.95 and is only available from cellar door. The bouquet showed VA, cherry, earthy notes, strawberry and milk chocolate aromas which were faithfully reproduced on the palate. A lean wine with fresh acid and smooth tannins, the consistency is silky, the structure seamless and the complexity both agreeable and harmonious. A very drinkable, terrific barbecue or summer lunch wine, it is rated as Agreeable with **** for value.

 

Capel Vale 2003 Nebbiolo sells for $16.95 and is available from cellar door only. The bouquet is very earthy and shows volatile characteristics. The fruit is delicate, the acid fresh and the tannins silky; overall a very nice, lean wine with a supple consistency, subtle, elegant structure and an agreeable complexity. Cherry, chocolate, mushroom and farmyard flavours combine with a dusty finish; this is a very good food wine and will improve. Rated as Recommended with *** for value, the wine should peak around 2008 and beyond.

Capel Vale 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon sells for $20.95. The initial pong blew off to reveal earthy, farmyard characteristics. Obvious, persistent fruit, crisp and lively acid combine with tight, drying tannins to form a medium-weight wine with a supple consistency, solid structure and simple complexity. The mulberry and chocolate flavours finish with a metallic edge and the wine seems like it has a dose of Brett. Rated as Acceptable with ** for value.

 

Capel Vale 1999 Black Label Merlot sells for is $47.50 at cellar door. The winery is making a serious attempt at a high-quality Merlot; up to 50% of the bunches are thinned out, they are hand-picked and then the wine spends 24 months in new French oak. Silky, drying tannins, fresh acid and pure deep fruit combine to form a medium-weight wine with a supple consistency, and an elegant and tight structure. Chocolate, plum, espresso coffee and dusty notes finish with good length and persistence. There is a touch, and I mean just a touch of a metallic character to the acid, which could indicate a minor amount of Brett. Rated as Highly Recommended with ** for value.

 

Capel Vale 2000 Kinnard Shiraz sells for $47.50 at cellar door. The wine hails from Mount Barker. Smooth, drying tannins combine with fresh acid and obvious distinct fruit to form a medium-weight wine with a firm but supple consistency, solid structure and well-developed complexity. Mulberry, plum, chocolate, pepper and cherry flavours finish with reasonable persistence and overall this is a very nice wine, but there is far better value available elsewhere. Rated as Highly Recommended with ** for value, the wine needs about another three years to show its best.

 

We walked out of Capel Vale feeling good (they also do a very good espresso coffee ), this had been quite a reasonable start to our journey and the cellar door manager had taken very good care of us. The setting for the winery is very picturesque as you can see from the photographs.

 

From Capel, it was about a 50 km drive to our first appointment at Happs which is located towards the northern end of the Margaret River wine region. On my last trip, this winery was one of the highlights for two reasons. Firstly, the wines were good, and secondly, the experience was one of the funniest and most enjoyable I have encountered at winery in a long time. Needless to say I was looking forward to it and having made an appointment, I was expecting to finally meet the man himself, Erl Happ.

 

When we arrived and asked for Erl, we were told that he was down south at their Karridale vineyards. I guess my reputation must have preceded me as Erl had left town for the day. No matter, the wine maker was there talking to a sales rep and we thought we would probably get to bend his ear for a while. I guess he knew who we were too, because he disappeared very quickly. The cellar door manager, a very amiable and helpful bloke by the name of John Beatty, had nowhere to run or hide; he couldn't get away from us, and what's more, John even seemed like he was happy to look after us.

 

From what I have heard, Erl is regarded as eccentric, a quality I admire and respect in people. (Some would say it is the pot calling the kettle black.) Erl likes buggerising around with different grape varieties and was doing it long before it became fashionable to plant those (mostly non-French) European grape varieties that are now becoming so popular in Australia. They now have 31 different grape varieties planted and as a result, have a mind-boggling line up of wines for a small producer. Luckily we could discard one half of the line up (the c-throughs) without thinking, but even then, the selection of reds tasted had to be restricted, or we would have spent the whole week here. Prices range from about $15-$55. The winery has two labels, the Happs label which is for the cheaper end of the spectrum, and the Three Hills label which are restricted to the reserve wines that come from their Karridale vineyard.

 

Happs 2002 Cabernet Merlot sells for $19 at cellar door. The nose was brooding with dusty notes, cherry spectrum fruit, milk chocolate and menthol. The palate showed loads of ripe chocolate and blackcurrant, but there was a slight sharpness on the finish. Ample-weight with a supple consistency, open structure and agreeable complexity, this is a very drinkable, fruit-driven, easy drinking wine with silky tannins. Rated as Agreeable with **** for value.

 

Happs 2001 Cabernets sells for $20 at cellar door. The wine is a Bordeaux blend with lots of different varieties. Smooth, well-balanced tannins combine with balanced acid and obvious, distinct fruit which provides a solid, almost seamless structure, supple consistency and fairly well-developed complexity. A very drinkable fruit-driven wine, it has reasonable persistence but not a lot of length on the palate. Mulberry, chocolate, cigar box and a touch of herbaceous characters complete the picture. Rated as Recommended with *** for value.

 

Happs 2002 Shiraz sells for $25 at cellar door. Intense blackberry, spice and lots of mint are found on the bouquet and are replicated on the palate. Fine, dusty tannins back an ample-weight, firm wine with an agreeable complexity. A good, honest wine that is very drinkable and finishes with good persistence, it is rated as Recommended with *** for value and can easily be drunk now or cellared in the short term.

 

Happs Three Hills 2001 Malbec sells for $28 at cellar door. A deeply brooding nose with floral notes, plums, blackberry and menthol notes. A medium-weight wine with a supple consistency, very solid, tight structure and agreeable complexity; it is well backed by smooth tannins, fresh and lively acid, and deeply seated fruit. Plum, violets, liquorice and raspberry flavours finish with excellent persistence. A young wine that needs time, it's a bit one-dimensional now but I would like to see what happens to it in the future. Rated as Recommended with *** for value.

 

Happs Three Hills 2001 Cabernet Franc sells for $28 at cellar door. Sweet, dark black berry fruit, forest floor and chocolate aromas pervade the bouquet. Tannins are smooth, the fruit is pure but the acid tickles the tip of the tongue and given the forest floor characteristics, there is possibly a minor touch of Brett in this wine. Medium-weight with a supple consistency, and elegant, almost seamless and solid structure, the complexity is agreeable and it is worth trying for something different. A good food wine, it is rated as Recommended with *** for value and will benefit from a couple of years in the cellar.

 

Happs Three Hills 2002 Charles Andreas sells for $36 at cellar door. A Bordeaux blend, it contains 92% of the good stuff, 4% Malbec and 4% Merlot. The bouquet shows loads of mint, multiple sweet berry aromas, black olive, cigar box, and vanillin oak characters. A well-balanced wine with very fine tannins, unobtrusive acid and pure, persistent, deeply seated fruit; it builds slowly across the palate and keeps kicking for ages; mint, multiple dark fruit flavours some herbaceous characters including olive and a hint of capsicum are found. There is a slight bitterness to the finish but this should recede in time. Good stuff! Worth buying, it is rated as Highly Recommended with *** for value and the rating should improve as the wine matures around 2010 and beyond.

 

 

This is only half the line up of the wines available for tasting

 

Happs Three Hills 2002 Shiraz sells for $55 at cellar door. The bouquet shows excellent complexity and is very attractive. Very-fine drying tannins and pure fruit are well-balanced but the acid is lively on the finish. Plums, blackberry, olive and a touch of herbs have an off-sweet flavour profile. Ample-weight with a firm consistency, solid and tight structure; the wine needs a few years to build complexity. Quite a well-made wine, but frankly it just didn't do it for me. Rated as Highly Recommended with ** for value.

 

Happs Three Hills 2001 Nebbiolo sells for $28 for a 500 ml bottle at cellar door. A very savoury, earthy bouquet, it is slightly perfumed with sweet raspberry notes wafting through; there is a hint of coffee: it has a great nose. The finest possible grained tannins are velvety and are there in abundance; and they are beautifully balanced to the pure, deep, persistent fruit. A lovely wine, dark chocolate, plum, raspberry and vanillin oak flavours finish very long. Medium-weight with a silky consistency, an elegant and seamless structure, the complexity is very well developed and harmonious. The wine needs a big steak and is rated as Highly Recommended with *** for value. Probably the best Australian Nebbiolo I have tried and well worth buying if you can find it. It's been made in very limited quantities, so if you want it you'd better get in quickly. My pick of the bunch from this visit.

 

Happs Three Hills 2004 Sangiovese sells for $28 at cellar door. It has an attractive, spicy off-sweet bouquet with sweet floral nuances to contrast. A well-balanced wine, the acid is noticeable, but much less noticeable than many other Sangiovese. Off-sweet on the take-up, there is a river of crystal, clear sweet fruit below that kicks on for ages. Medium-weight with a silky consistency, and almost seamless structure and well-developed complexity, this is an excellent food wine that is worth buying. Rated as Highly Recommended with *** for value, it needs a couple of years sleep.

 

Once again, I walked out of Happs impressed and happy with the wines I had tasted. At that stage, little did I know how well this winery would stack up against many of the more notable big names in the area. If you are going to Margaret River, this winery is on the must-visit list and their wines are worth tracking down, particularly the Three Hills Charles Andreas, the Nebbiolo and the Sangiovese.

 

From there, we continued to head south and drove through the township of Margaret River and swung left into Rosa Brook Road. Out in the middle of nowhere, 17 km from the main road, we drove up a dirt driveway and were enthusiastically greeted by “Boof” - a black Staffy. His owner, John Casas was not far behind. John is also the proud owner of Casas Wine.

 

  

 

Boof thinks he is a reincarnated hooker - either that or he is hoping to get lucky!

 

Although they used to make two white wines, a Chardonnay and a Sauvignon Blanc, John has seen the light and now sells almost all his white grapes to Stella Bella. As befitting the isolated nature of his property, John is a very relaxed lay-back sort of a guy. He has 26 acres under vines and used to handle the entire property by himself but decided that that was leading to a "fairly exciting lifestyle" So now Stella Bella is looking after the white vines for him.

 

The first vines were planted fourteen years ago and the winery was established eleven years ago, but the first vintage under his own label took place in 1998.

 

90% of Casa production is red wine and whilst his property is capable of producing 5,000 cases, in these tough times he is happy to produce 1,500 cases under is own label, the majority of which is sold by word-of-mouth or to his direct mailing list customers.

 

We sat out on the veranda of his property enjoying the peace and quiet and having a good chin wag. We discussed the industry, the lifestyle he leads, and in passing the told us about his own personal cellar, which must be something to behold, because it dwarfs Brian's by a substantial order of magnitude. This went on for quite some time and whilst I was enjoying the ambience I was wondering if we were ever going to taste some wine. John then told us that he was off to Asia (the next day) where he is started to export a fair quantity of his wine, and as it would be a waste to have a whole lot of open bottles hanging around, he would give us the wine samples to take with us and I could try them at my own convenience. What a good idea, that way I could assess them at my leisure when I got home.

 

As mentioned above, John Casas was kind enough to give me a number of samples to try at my leisure. I shipped the wine home from WA and it arrived in time for me to sample the wines and complete the tasting notes so they could be inserted in this proper slot in the tour diary. Given that I was trying the wine at home, it afforded me the opportunity of examining each wine over a protracted period of time, which in some ways is a distinct advantage. For example, the 2001 Cabernet looked flat and ungainly when first opened but changed considerably after a number of hours of air time.

 

Casas 2000 Cabernet Sauvignon is a back vintage and was kindly provided by John so that I could get an understanding of the style of his label. The bouquet initially exhibited a touch of VA, which blew off; with mint/menthol, chocolate a hint of varnished oak and after some time, it blossomed with plum, spice and a touch of black tar being dominant. It was certainly more attractive with air. This wine had me perplexed; it was not at all what I expected. Medium-weight, the tannins are dusty and there is some richness to the fruit even if it does seem a tad lean. Blackberry, pepper, plum, blackcurrant, chocolate and a slight level of green bean character was not what I expected from a Shiraz; it was only after I finished drafting the tasting note that I realised it was a Cabernet Sauvignon. A well and truly drinkable wine that will be enhanced by food, it is rated as Agreeable with *** for value.

 

Casas 2001 Cabernets is a blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon and 40% Cabernet Franc and retails for $26 a bottle or $260 a carton. According to the website, this wine is still available for sale.  Upon opening, the bouquet was very strange; it was completely flat and earthy but there didn't seem like there was even the slightest hint of cork taint. Likewise on the palate, it seemed flat and like it was lacking in acid but yet it was still strangely drinkable. Over time it blossomed; as well as the dark chocolate and earthy character coffee and green bean characters emerged and it started to look better and better. The tight nature of the wine and the flaccid acid character receded leaving an ample-weight wine that finished with good persistence and length. With lots of fine tannins to support the wine that are integrating well, the finish is clean and dry. It would certainly go well with spicy food. Rated as Recommended with *** of value.

 

Casas 2002 Cabernet was a completely different beast. The bouquet was youthful, tight and showing lots of primary sweet fruit with cherry, mocha and a touch of eucalyptus. Abundant powdery tannins are well matched to the fruit. A layered sweet and off-sweet flavour profile is made up of brambly fruit, dark chocolate, cigar box and tea leaf. The tannins are perfectly ripe and provide a supple consistency and drying finish. A very youthful wine that needs another few years, it is rated as Recommended with *** for value and the rating may improve as the wine reaches its peak. After some hours, a metallic sensation started to develop on the front of the palate which is sometimes associated with Brett. The wine was placed in the fridge for twenty four hours and it became more pronounced. Not sure if it’s a one off or not, but in all other respects the wine seemed fine.

 

The amazing thing about these three wines is that there is absolutely no consistency between them, yet the fruit comes from the same vineyard. According to John, he basically lets the vineyard do its own thing and tries to interfere as little as possible and the same philosophy extends to the winemaking process. In essence what he is trying to achieve is an expression of his vineyard as dictated by the seasons. These three wines have certainly achieved that objective.

 

Casas 2001 Shiraz retails for $26 a bottle or $260 a carton. The bouquet is interesting; showing leather, menthol, chocolate and what appears to be plastic Band-Aids. Smooth, powdery tannins and unobtrusive acid combine with distinct fruit to form an ample-weight wine that is completely off-sweet in nature. Black pepper, chocolate with a touch of green herbs finishing to black coffee; the persistence is good but is a tad clipped on the back palate. I suspect the possibility of a very minor amount of Brett. As this bottle was shipped during very hot weather, if it's there at all, it would be in the adds complexity range. A very drinkable wine, it's rated as Agreeable with *** for value.

At Casas I spotted two fire extinguisher  wearing condoms - very strange!

And next to an ashtray - they also must have some "heavy duty smokers"

 

Casas 2002 Shiraz retails for $26 a bottle or $260 a carton. Enter Dr Jekyll and Mr Hyde! For the first few hours, the wine showed, deep, dumb, earthy fruit, cedar and a touch of pine on the bouquet leading to a very different palate. Plum, pepper, coffee and chocolate flavours were there with a noticeable, green unripe characters; it finished to coffee. In all honesty, it wasn't particularly attractive.

 

After about four of five hours of airtime, it improved out of sight. The bouquet was Boddington's Irish Moss and the unripe character completely dissipated leaving a much improved wine. Dark, earthy chocolate characters and touch of herb seemed perfectly ripe.

 

Also in its favour, it is ample-weight, growing to muscular weight with airtime, is well-balanced and has abundant, almost creamy tannins which provides a good mouth feel. Recommended with *** for value.

 

Casas 2003 Shiraz will be released around the of April and retails for $26 a bottle or $260 a carton. Youthful, fresh and clean; the bouquet shows pepper and milk chocolate; and you can almost smell the dirt of the earth that the vines were grown in; just lovely. Creamy, powdery tannins with unobtrusive balanced acid and deeply seated fruit, the wine exhibits very good balance and is well poised, finishing with good length and persistence. Plum, pepper, a smidgeon of herbs, liquorice, and chocolate, it’s eminently drinkable now but should improve over the next three to five years. Rated as Recommended with **** for value (based on the case price,) the rating may improve as the wine matures. This is the best of the line up and worth buying!

 

In our conversation, John used the words "interesting dude” a number of times in reference to other people; it is probably apt that if I had to sum him up, I would use the words “an interesting dude."

 

That was the end of the day's formal wine business and it was time to check into our accommodation but before we did that, we wanted to stock up with some supplies, so we headed into the local supermarket. The shopping list included muesli, milk, juices, nuts, and a few other assorted essentials. Brian decided to take a picture of the local policeman's ability to park the car, so that he could show his partner Andrea that he is not the only one that doesn't always park perfectly.

 

We had booked a house called Maison Bleuwhich was located in a quiet cul-de-sac just up the road from Prevelly Beach. The house had two double bedrooms, both with queen size beds and an optional single mattress for unwanted guests like Davo. (And if he didn't like sleeping in the lounge for the two nights he was going to be there, he could always sleep in the Tarago.)

 

When we arrived, the neighbours were a bit stand-offish and didn't really want to know us, but as they got used to us being there, they tolerated our presence and could be frequently found only a few yards away from the house. The views were sensational, besides the flock of roos, we had views of Margaret River and the ocean. The house was reasonably priced at $190 a night for the two of us.

 

The neighbours in the bottom paddock

 

  

 

 

The neighbours to our west

 

When we walked into the house, it had been closed up and was bloody hot. We opened all the sliding doors and windows and a veritable gale blew through, cooling it down in short order; it didn't look like we were going to need the air-conditioning after all, but we would definitely need the other major attraction that made us book this house over any other: it had a phone line (for local outgoing calls) which means that we could access the Internet. Yes, we are a couple of Internet tragics!

 

I quickly checked my e-mails had received one that did not look like it was good news. Davo had left his new car parked at the train station whilst we were having dinner and came back to find that someone had tried to break into it. The Jeep has a laminated windscreen and laminated windows, so trying to penetrate the even the side glass is almost impossible. The thieves obviously got very frustrated and took it out on a panel and roof of the car too. So much for his new Jeep! You can't drive a car with the smashed windscreen, so Davo was trying to get it replaced but he was not sure if it would be able to be completed before he was due to join us in Margaret River. In my e-mail back to him, I suggested that if the car was not ready he should think about a rental because it would be a shame if he would be unable to join us.

 

After trying to say hello to the neighbours, and having a wander through the house, it was time for dinner and we headed into Margaret River. During our travels, and even before we got to WA, we asked for restaurant recommendations, and this first night, we decided to eat at the well-regarded Ze Arc of Iris Café. The place was rocking, it was very busy; lots of noise too, but luckily we had a table outside.

We started proceedings with a bottle on of Three Hills 1999 Charles Andreas which we had purchased at the winery earlier that day. As it opened up, the quality of the wine became obvious and softened quite nicely. It lingered beautifully. Brian thought the Cabernet Franc was starting to shine through.

 

Brian’s starter was an Asian salad dish: five spice salad with beef, prawns and noodles. Brian thought it was an interesting combination, and sort of liked it, but didn't feel it was genuine Asian-style food. He said “The prawns clash with the beef and the flavours are wrong, more Moroccan than Asian."

 

When our orders were taken, the Maitre d’ who appeared to be very efficient didn't actually write down what we ordered. So whilst Brian started his entree, I waited and waited for mine to appear. After it became apparent that there was a problem, we called him over and he apologised, saying he didn't think that I had ordered a starter.

 

My wok fried squid with garlic, lemon juice and tomato sauce arrived in record time and it was very tasty. Unfortunately parts of the squid were not cooked properly, the Bock Choy was wilted in part but not heated through in others; the squid was cooked in parts, but not cooked through (and almost cold) in places and whilst it was tender, that was possibly from having some time in a lemon marinade. The one surprising feature of this dish was that there was no mention of chilli in the description and yet there was more than just a hint of it in the dish. From my perspective, that was not a problem, but for those that don't like chilli, they would have received a very rude shock with this dish. Overall, it was all right but not what I expected and was not particularly well cooked.

 

Maison Bleu- a top spot and not a bad two bedroom shack

 

  

 

For a main course, I had blue groper fillet wrapped in spinach with haloumi, herbs and some other good stuff. It was cooked to perfection and incredibly tasty, but the dish tasted like it had far too much salt and whilst the textures were good, the flavour was completely dominated by salt. To make matters even worse, the accompanying spinach had been cooked in soy sauce.

 

We had also purchased a 500 ml bottle of Three Hills 2001 Nebbiolo as we had suspected it would be very good with food. The good news was that it was just as good as we had hoped.

 

Brian ordered a fillet of beef with a blue cheese and parmesan crust on top. It was very tasty, but he had ordered it a rare and it arrived closer to medium than to rare.

 

As the plates were cleared from both our table and the table behind us, I asked for the bill. After some time it had not appeared, but the table behind us had received their bill, even though to the best of my knowledge I didn't think they had asked for it. This was another indication of the inattentive service. I went to the cash register to pay the bill, and the waitress, who was the same waitress who had brought out and cleared our main courses, asked me if all we had had to eat was the one entrée? Enough said about the service and food, suffice it to say, I'm not likely to return there in a hurry.

 

After dinner, we grabbed our open bottles of wine and went for a walk through the town. Except for the pubs and a few restaurants, nothing was open; but the drive-through bottle shop was doing a roaring trade. Judging by the aroma as we walked past a pub, no doubt the people selling marijuana were also doing a roaring trade!

 

We drove back to the house, had another glass of wine and then had an early night. It was a very good start to our time in Margaret River and we still had many more days of enjoyment ahead, but you will have to wait for the next chapter for the details.  

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