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Weekly Article |
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Sydney Time
Copyright © Ric Einstein 2008
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This Corky Story Stinks - and its not TCA ( January)
In 2006 the WWF (World Wide Fund for Nature) issued a thirty-four page report extolling the virtues of the cork industry and the profound positive effect it has on the environment. The report is incredibly detailed and covers the following topics:-
There is one consistent, underpinning theme through out the document; “the cork industry is vital to the ecology and the economy, and without it, the following will happen:-
The bad guys in the story are artificial closures. According to the report, which uses fear, uncertainty and doubt to sow the scare tactic seeds; if these catch on and the cork industry drops volume, the cork industry will be in trouble and all sorts of catastrophic things will happen. (I may even go bald.)
Naturally enough, the cork industry would be delighted to see such a report as it basically states that the world cannot do without this industry, but being a cynic, I can only wonder if the cork industry, or one of its members has made a sizable donation to the WWF. The cork industry has been known to be very generous in its entertainment. It frequently puts on junkets to Spain for journalists in an endeavour to have the influential industry heavyweights do their selling.
I honestly don’t know if the cork industry was behind this report, either covertly or overtly, but the report is very convenient for the industry.
The key point that is stressed through out the write up is “Cork for bottle stoppers accounts for almost 70% of the total value of the cork market. The wine industry thus plays a vital role in maintaining the economic value of cork and the cork oak forests.
The increase in the market share of alternative wine stoppers, specifically plastic stoppers and screwtops, could reduce the economic value of cork lands therefore leading to conversion to other uses, abandonment, degradation, and finally loss of one of the best and most valuable examples of a human–nature balanced system.”
As stated previously, the article uses a lot of hypothetical doomsday propositions to support its importance.
In the reports “recommendations section” it says, “WWF calls on the wine and the cork industries to reverse the current and potential threats that affect the survival of cork oak landscapes. In order to maintain the existence of the cork forests, the wine and cork industries need to take action now to maintain the markets for cork stoppers.”
Two points here. Firstly, I love the way the WWF is telling the wine industry what it should be doing, but that is not the most important aspect. The WWF talks about “current and potential threats that affect the survival of the cork landscape.” As pointed out by Murray Almond in this post on StarForum, this supposed threat is negated by the cork industry itself where it states, amongst other things, the following:-
“Champagne stopper production will be consolidated at an updated facility in the north, to be known as Amorim Champagne, capable of producing 450 million closures a year. This represents a massive 70 per cent increase in supply of the popular SPARK® and ChampCork® brands to meet continuing strong demand for Amorim product.
As the US wine industry expands so too is Amorim’s position in the market with sales of nearly 450 million corks in 2005 — an increase of 10 per cent on the previous year.
Amorim Cork South Africa celebrates its 25th anniversary this year. In that time it has distributed more than one billion corks to South African wineries. Today, the company continues to grow with the country's burgeoning wine industry and is recognised as one of its most active supporters.”
So demand for wine corks is still growing, despite the increase in acceptance of alternative closures.
The WWF then goes onto say:-
“The wine industry needs to demonstrate its corporate responsibility by considering the environmental and socioeconomic values of cork – by choosing cork and promoting its use among customers.”
What the WWF does not realise or state is that the push to alternative closures came about for two reasons. Firstly, it was the appalling failure rate of corks and the cork industries inability to fix the problem that caused wineries to look to alternatives. The cork industry is root cause of the success of the alternative closure market. Secondly, the push and acceptance of alternative closures has not come from the industry itself, it has come from consumers and retailers who are sick and tired of the failure of corks to safely or consistently seal wine.
Finally the WWF has a suggestion for the cork industry when it states, “The cork industry needs to maintain and improve the quality of cork stoppers (addressing in particular the issues related to TCA and traceability) and communicating progress to the wine industry and consumers.”
Now that sounds fine and dandy, almost even-handed but let’s look at the whole picture but earlier in the WWF’s story it states:-
“Is TCA a cork-only related taint? Traditionally this mouldy taint was termed corkiness or cork taint, therefore leading to the assumption that the cork stoppers were the responsible for its transmission to the wine. However the contamination may come from three sources (and their combination): the wine, the cork stopper, and the external environment. The presence of halogenated phenols is widespread in the natural environment due to their extensive use in pesticides, herbicides and sanitation materials. Wine may contain TCA or TCA precursors before bottling, and the contamination with haloanisoles may occur in the cellar environment, e.g. in wooden materials, as well as during storage and transport. Therefore tainted wine is also found in bottles with non-cork stoppers or in plastic packages” Source: Facts about tainted wine and cork, Pereira 2006
Technically this is 100% completely correct but it is also completely misleading and disingenuous. Firstly, TCA in corks is responsible for the vast majority of cork taint in wine, not the two other factors mentioned. Secondly, the WWF story does not even mention oxidation caused by the poor seal of some corks, which is another major shortcoming of tree bark plugs.
I have the upmost respect for what the WWF is trying to achieve, but when they resort to producing a document that looks like an advert for the cork industry to push their own barrow, then their credibility needs to be taken with a grain of salt.
Feel free to submit your comments! From: Dennis Colquitt02/01/2007 20:31:58 The screw cap closure opponents have got their heads in or up the proverbial. TCA is surely caused by infected corks. Bottle stink in scew cap closed wines is most likely a result of poor sulphur management in the wine making process. Many wine makers I have spoken to about this have agreed a need to adjust sulphur regimes.I sincerely hope BYO restaurants will reduce their corkage costs/ Ehr scewage costs as a result. After all it's one less item that guests can purloin.
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