Who are they trying to kid
Having recently read the latest Winestate magazine
Annual Wine of the Year awards I am once again amazed at the winning selections
in some of the categories. My comments in this article apply equally too many
competitions where one wine is declared the World Best or the Best of the Year
etc.
The Winestate Shiraz of the year was the Cathcart Ridge
Estate, The Grampians Shiraz 2000. Admittedly, when I tried it, it was not
under the best of circumstances as the wine was a bit warm but out of the
hundreds of Shiraz I tried during the year; at that point, under no
circumstance would it even make the short list for one of my top wines. The
winery was kind enough to recently send me a bottle to try at my leisure so
that I could get a true picture and understanding of the wine. For the record,
the wine has won three gold medals, one in the Victorian Wine Show, one in
Ballarat and one at the International Wine Challenge.
Cathcart Ridge Estate, The
Grampians Shiraz 2000
Jan 05
No wonder the judges fell in love with this wine, the
bouquet shows terrific complexity with all sorts of nuances, a touch of VA
which blew off fairly quickly, well judged French oak, coffee essence, intense
black spectrum berry fruit, spice, mint, menthol and a minor amount of Brett
that added complexity, rather than detracting from the wine. A glorious mouth
feel is provided by the silky, ultra fine-grained tannins and deeply seated,
pure fruit. Seductive, is the first word that comes to mind. Blackberry, plum, chocolate,
black coffee and mint flow across the palate and whilst the wine is ever so
slightly short on the palate, the persistence is very good. It's solid, classy,
harmonious, perfectly balanced and shows very well now. Rated as
Excellent with *** for
value.
Is interesting to note that the
second sample was far superior to the first bottle I tried almost twelve months
ago and it illustrates a very important point. There are so many different
factors that can and do influence the assessment of the wine it is not funny.
It can be bottle variation, minor cork induced problems, temperature
variations, the impact of food or other wines in the line up, the mood of the
person assessing the wine, outside distracting influences or any one of a
number of other possible factors. As a result, the same label may look very
different when assessed on two separate occasions. The assessor or judge’s
personal stylistic preferences also needs to be taken into account and plays a
significant part too.
If Ian Thorpe, after winning the 400 meters freestyle event
in the Olympics was called the best 400 freestyle swimmer in the world, not too
many people could rationally argue. However, if Martina Throwalegover won the
200 meter short course breaststroke event in the Greenland International Open
event, the invitations to which had been widely publicised in Bikers Monthly,
not too many rational people would seriously think she was the best
breaststroker in the world today.
Yet in reality, that is pretty much what happens with wine. There
are numerous wine shows and competitions all over the world, from magazine
events to wine shows where a “best” is awarded. It may be for the best Shiraz
in Australia, the best Cabernet in the US, the best Sauvignon Blanc in New
Zealand, or the best wine in the world at the Greenland International Wine
Competition.
Whilst the winning wine may be a very good example of its
type, it has won based on not only on a subjective set of criteria, but a
subjective set of human, and very individual personal tastes. And then the
entry rules need to be considered because these play a part in the selection
process. For example, the wine may need to have a certain (large commercial) volume
produced to be eligible for entry and that obviously excludes many very fine
quality wines.
The competition, or the other wines entered into the show
also needs to be considered. In many cases, a large number of the producers of
serious quality wine do not enter their wines into shows or competitions. There
are any number of reasons for this, cost being just one.
Another aspect worthy of consideration is that many top wines
may not show well when they are young because they have been designed for
long-term ageing and over ten years, or possibly even longer, will metamorphose
from a grub to a butterfly. On the other hand, some wines are very attractive
in their youth because they have been designed, built, and constructed as “show
ponies”, yet these wines are not “great quality” even though they can be very
enjoyable and win lots of gongs.
If those same wines were put into a line up five years
later, the results can and would be very different. It is quite possible the
top wine in the original competition was tired and showing poorly, yet a wine
that was overlooked or thought as being ordinary, may now be considered
brilliant.
So, whenever you see a wine that is proclaimed as "the
world's best" or "wine of the year" take it with a grain of salt
and realise that whilst it might be good, it is not the be all and end all.
There are no absolutes in wine, just people's personal and individual opinions.