Disparaging the Opposition or Just Ignorance

 

At the risk of been seen as “holier than thou”; which is certainly not my intention; I will pose a question for your consideration. On wine forums, what do you think of well-known wine makers or winery owners either posting on wines they did not like and "slanging them off" or “bagging” their competitors. Over the months, two owners of one particular well-known Barossa winery have not been backward with negative comments about both wines and other wineries.

 

The first one noticed was in a thread where this winery owner stated “…. Mount Mary is Australia's greatest show bag of a wine (looks good on the outside but once open it is full of shit), but then again in the early 80's green herbal tea leave and tomato aromas and one good review from Halliday and your reputation for the next 20 years was made. Sadly I feel Dalwhinnie and Jasper Hill are in the same boat. The last few I have tried have been very average.

But then again Dr Middleton arrogance is so great we the consumers so stupid, but then again you can only keep us in the dark and feed us on bullshit for so long.”

 

Strong words from someone who is not afraid to express an opinion and it raises a number of questions. Are the statements factually correct, personal feelings or a combination of both? Should well-known wine makers or winery owners be making comments like these on public forums?

 

Recently on Mark Squires Bulletin Board there was a thread where the same winery owner said:

 

“TN: 2002 Coldstream Hills Reserve Pinot

If this is as good as Ozzy Pinot can be, we may as well rip it all out!

Last March at the cellar door I was told that this was the greatest reserve to date and that it has sold out in a month and that I would be the luckiest man on earth if I would ever find it at retail and would expect to pay $AUD80+ for the pleasure, so to may amazement if found a bottle for $AUD59.95…..

 

Light red to deep red in colour, it has a medium bouquet of asparagus, toffee, ripe herbs, sweet berries, mineral, quite oak dominate, all backed by a oaky ash note. The palate starts out weak and angular, thin and watery and has no great mouth feel, then your hit with a boom of sweet candy like layered fruit that quickly dissipates to a very dry acid and warm oak dominate finish.”

 

This too, raises questions. Firstly, the comment “the luckiest man alive…” was possibly an exaggeration. Secondly, the recommended retail price of the wine was $80; as a winery owner, he would be aware that frequently wines are available for less at retailers than they are sold for at the winery. So, "the amazement" comment is surprising.  (Editors Note {Red Bigot} It’s still listed @ $52.99 at Nicks, he paid too much.)

 

The opening line, “If this is as good as Ozzy Pinot can be, we may as well rip it all out!” looks like newspaper headline sensationalism. There are some good Australian Pinots around, and even some lower-priced brands that are reasonable value. Even those that don't particularly like the grape know how difficult it is to grow and what a fickle variety it can be. Yes, it does need to be improved, but there are certainly no need to rip it all out; even if this was “as good as it can be.” Without experience, experimentation and trial, it will never get better. Ripping it all out is a defeatist attitude.

 

Just for the heck of it, here is Jeremy Oliver's tasting note; and he rated at 90 points. “A fragrance of raspberries, cherries and confection reveals herbal, greenish undertones and a hint of meatiness. Dusty, long and elegant, but beneath its rich pristine and sumptuous expression of cherry/berry flavours lies a layer of sappy herbal influence.”

 

In another thread, this time the partner of the winery owner quoted above, made comment in regard to Kalleske Wines. He said, "I have heard a rumour that a recent shipment of this wine that was being exported to the USA was denied export approval by the Wine and Brandy Corporation in Australia because of excessive VA and excessive TCA.”

 

This can only be ignorance, disparaging the opposition, or both (it is not true). When applying for a permit to ship wine overseas, the AWBC does not test it for TCA. As a part owner in a winery that does substantial export business, if the person concerned that did not know it, he probably should. Strangely enough the other owner was strongly recommending Kalleske wines in the other thread referenced.

 

Yes, everyone is entitled to their opinions and that includes winemakers and winery owners; but should winery owners be making public statements that are strongly derogatory of other wineries, their wines or winemakers? Or is there no line to cross; and is it reasonable for them to say what ever they feel?

 

What do you think?

 

Email me at torb@torbwine.com