Past Articles - 2004

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                 Sydney Time

  

            

           Copyright © Ric Einstein 2008

 


 

TORB's Harem Gathers; Gangs, Grogs and Laughs

 

Last night (oh my poor head today), saw the gathering of the harem to celebrate my fifty-second  happybday.gif . For those you wish to criticise me for being politically incorrect – which I am – the label harem for the three ladies in my life, was a moniker they themselves coined. About 18 months ago, a bottle of Chateau Suduiraut 1990 Sauternes was brought back from overseas by Marion to be drunk at a suitable, auspicious occasion. When I suggested it as an after-dinner sticky she was horrified and insisted that we drink it as an aperitif.

 

Now I know my place and do what I am told, so I went out and purchased some blue cheese, ripe brie, some duck liver pate with Grand Marnier, port and pistachio terrine and a few olives.

 

My very long-time friend, Marion arrived during the afternoon with flowers and the rest of the harem, Nicki (next door neighbour) and Lynne (“aunty” to my “children” and “the other manager” of my business) rocked up around 5.30.

 

As you can see from the photos, the three of them easily fitted onto my new 2½ seater but Lynne thought it was just a tad too high for her.

 

The Sauternes was golden in colour and had a lushness of character that I have never seen in an Oz botrytis wine, and I have consumed just about all the best we produce at varying ages, including various Noble One vintages with 10-12 years of age. The bouquet was divine and showed cumquat and honey scents that were fresh, crisp and intense. The palate has brilliant complexity with honey, butterscotch, and quince tang to offset the sweetness. Structure is equally amazing, the balance of components are perfect. This sumptuous wine is rich, luscious, has a silky mouth feel and the finish in both terms of length and persistency is as good as it gets.

 

Rated as Outstanding, this is possibly the finest botrytis wine I have ever consumed. (1er Cru wine and with an alcohol level of 15%.)

 

 

After the starter, we piled into Lynne’s car for the five minute journey to “The Journeyman” in the thriving, beautiful, downtown metropolis of Berrima. Over the last six months or so I have been quietly hearing good things about this place so it was time to try it. The old building has not changed much in the 10 years since I was last in there; in fact it probably has not changed much in the last 100 years. The place has been brightened up but still retains its atmosphere. Our appointment was for 6.30-6.45 because they don’t like everyone coming at once.

 

We walked into a very warm room with a blazing fire which is just as well. Marion hates the cold and always gives me a hard time about it when she visits in winter. To make matters worse, when Nicki walked into my place, she had mentioned that it was 2 degrees outside. I disagreed and said it was about 8-10 and then went to check my car gauge. (My inside-outside thermometer probe was broken a couple of days ago by the dogs playing a game.) The car gauge said 10 degrees but Marion took Nicki’s side even though she had not been out to see for herself and it was on.  Two against one and I didn’t stand a chance. The odds, of course got worse when Lynne arrived and the sisterhood ganged up on me.

……….

When I accused Nicki of being “neurotic and menopausal” she retorted “No I am not, I am having a ‘power flush’.”  realmad.gif Yep, about 2,500 volts worth directly aimed at me. boom.gif

 

We walked into the Journeyman carting three bottles of “plonk” and an aluminium case. When we were seated, the c-through glasses were removed and replaced with reasonable quality Esse style red glasses. Glasses of iced water were delivered without being asked, a nice touch. However although it was meant to be filtered, the chlorine was almost as bad as the council swimming pool so the three locals who are use to drinking tank water opted for bottled stuff. Marion, who drinks Sydney water and will drink anything, was happy for the tap water.

From left, Marion, Nicki and Lynne.................  

The first bottle of wine was a Wynns 1991 Centenary Reserve Blend and the previous bottles of this had always been stunning. When I pulled the cork out of this one a couple of hours previously, I was worried about it. The cork was not in great shape did not come out in one piece. In fact, the middle came out leaving the bulk of the casing intact. An ah-so got the balance out without difficulty. The wine was decanted and when I tried it, whilst there were no obvious faults, I was worried about it. At the restaurant it did not show well at all. There was nothing specifically wrong with it but it was plain ordinary. No TCA but just lacked pizzazz. Half the bottle was left.

 

A complimentary appetiser was presented which was a stuffed venison tartlet that was superb. The dinner rolls also had caraway seed in them which contrasted the sweetness of the bread and was very enjoyable.

 

The gang of three looked at the dessert menu before looking at the mains or starters. Being a mere male, I looked at the starters and then the mains. Nicki and I both had starters and they were both terrific. Mine was scampi which has been taken from the shell and served in very thin slices. It was a small serving but adequate.

 

Around about this time, the sommelier was pouring water for Lynne and asked if we wanted fresh glasses for the next wine. Marion made some comment about not needing them and I said we would not run out of glasses as I proceeded to open up the aluminium case. The sommelier must have been worried about the contents of the case as she took her eye off the water she was pouring and promptly spilled Lynne’s water glass which tipped all over the table cloth and Lynne! Oooh, now that was impressive.

 

Being a caring, sharing type I empathised and said it could have been worse. It could have been wine spilt or the water could have been spilt over me.

 

The second wine was a Henschke 1994 Mount Edelstone. The last time I had this wine about a month ago, it seemed like it was drying out and was not impressive. This bottle was right back to form. Mid weight, the wine is at its peak. The tannins have softened beautifully and it just glided down seamlessly. In some ways, it was like drinking a glass of chocolate with some mint, but there was much more complexity if you looked for it. But most of us were too busy enjoying ourselves and having fun at my expense. There were plums, cherries, liquorice and all sorts of other subtle nuances. The wine was rated as Outstanding and was finished very quickly.

 

…………………….Birthday Flowers

This restaurant has great wine list but it sure is eclectic. From Rosemount Diamond Label at $25 and Saltram 2002 Shiraz at the same price through to Fox Creek 1998 Reserve Shiraz $65, Petaluma 1991 $130, John Riddoch 1986, Mount Mary and various vintages of Grange. Best of all, you can BYO for a ridiculously expensive (sic) $3 a head!   

 

The food menu has a more than adequate selection and even caters for vegetarians and bloody fussy eaters like Lynne who was delighted with her selection. For a main, I normally have duck when it is on and looks good, but there was a roast shoulder of lamb with cassoulet beans that sounded interesting. Marion decided to have the duck with seared scallops and fig and we agreed to share the dishes.

 

I don’t like fatty lamb and although there was a little fat in the shoulder cut, it was not very noticeable. The lamb was well done but the intensity of the herbs through it was most enjoyable. What was sensational was the sauce surrounding the lamb. Intense jus of the meatiest variety and mandatory use of bread rolls to sop it up. When we exchanged plates, I did notice that Marion had very kindly, being as caring and sharing as I am, left me zero scallops to go with my half of the duck. The main course servings were very generous and filling. They were accompanied by a bowl of funny looking, cold, green and multicoloured leafy stuff of the variety that I dislike so there was no way I was going to try that salad. The girls loved it and not only raved about the freshness of the leaves but were enraptured by the dressing. They ganged up on me to try and get me to try it but I remained true to the faith and held steadfast.

 

The final wine which we consumed with our mains was a Charles Cimicky 1998 Reserve Shiraz. Whilst this wine was decanting, it went through the most amazing metamorphosis of aromas. At one early stage, it was rank with smoky oak, at another pure dark chocolate and so it went. With the strong flavours of the food, it was a great match. The wine is full bodied and has a massive amount of fruit flavour and intensity. Dark chocolate, plums, blackberry, vanilla, smoky oak, iodine and star anise. Mouth feel was very smooth and the tannins have been deftly handled. It will continue to improve as in reality, it is a baby. There is no danger of this 98 falling over anytime soon. This bottle also disappeared in good time.

 

Another nice touch, this time a complimentary tiny trio of sorbet flavours presented on a small individual ladle which was the perfect palate cleanser. First-class stuff.

 

Although I had consumed more than enough, we looked at the dessert menu. Lynne who had not had a starter and normally eats like a sparrow decided to have a chocolate with lemon curd. Whilst I was umming and ahing about having one, the girls ganged up on me, twisted my arm behind my back and forced me to order a chocolate trio. That’s my story and I am sticking to it! I tried to entice them to order a dessert but they steadfastly refused claiming they were too full to eat another mouthful. When the table was being set for dessert, they demanded three spoons for my dessert!

 

It’s a worry, my present from Marion was wrapped in this box what is she trying to tell me?

This dish had enough chocolate to kill a chocoholic or satisfy me. The first item was a hot chocolate pudding with an outer layer of chocolate cake and inside stuffed full of warm melted dark chocolate. The second item was a collection of mini chocolate ice-cream balls that had been infused with honeycomb. The third item was a chocolate "Jaffa Tart", chocolate ganash infused with orange on a chocolate base. There was much jousting of spoons and bruised fingers whilst this dish was being devoured. Now had I been in charge of proceedings, we could have had a great bottle of Sparkling Shiraz as a starter at my place and I could have enjoyed the Sauternes with the death -by-chocolate. But being a male, I know my place and do what I am told.

 

Service was outstanding. The professional staff are acutely aware of everything. It was easy to quickly catch an eye when you want anything. This attribute is becoming very rare in country restaurants. The final touch, as if we had not had enough chocolate, was a complimentary home made dark chocolate with almond chips in it. Yummo! 

 

What more could you want for your birthday, terrific food, great service, excellent wine and three very good friends to share it all with. The price was reasonable too, but the gang of three will read this, so I wont say how much as they will accuse me of being a cheap-skate and will want to go somewhere more expensive next year. What the harem does not know, is that I have a bottle of Saltram Pinnacle Selection 1952  Liqueur Muscat lined up for dessert next year so I wont have to put up with this Sauternes at the start nonsense and we can get back to having a Sparkling Shiraz.

 

 

 

Copyright © Ric Einstein 2004