Red
Bigots Grand Bowral Bash
Red Bigot (my mate Brian Handreck) and I get together every
once in awhile to engage in the black
arts of red The
rules are simple. We each bring a couple of bottles that are masked and play an
options game. The last few times we have got together Brian has “got me” on a
number of wines and has also managed to have the wine of the night. This time I
was determined to acquit myself well in the options and have the wine of the
night.
Brian brings his partner Andrea along and to make it more
fun and not bore her totally stupid with red bigotry, I invited my long time friend
Marion to join us. They arrive at my place and everyone chats whilst Brian and
I double decant and check the four bottles of carefully masked wine. It’s
obvious at this point we are in for a night of great wines, not an “ordinary”
drop amongst these beauties.
The witching hour of 5 pm
arrives and its time to open the first bottle which Brian was kind enough to
bring and one I had never seen. The kick starter (the first wine) and the mule
kick (the final desert wine) are served open. The first wine is a Buller’s Reginald
Langdon Buller Sparkling Shiraz. The label tells us
it’s a blend of wines with 40% from 1968, 15% from 1972 and 45% from 1996. It’s
a very unusual wine with a nose showing leathery characters indicative of the
age of older components of the base wine, subtle and complex leathery
characters, liquorice, chocolate and a not so subtle amount of dried red
currents. The finish whilst dry was not overly drying and was very long. We
rated the wine as Excellent and will be looking to buy more. It’s great to try
something so different and have it turn out to be a winner. The alcohol is 15.5% and the combination of
two glasses of this wine with just a couple of olives and nuts to snack on and
I am glad I was not driving!
My other very good friend Lynne arrives at 6. 45 PM (after we
have finished the bubbles) and she kindly chauffers us into Bowral and never
stopped bashing my ear all the way there because I didn’t invite her to join us
for the Sparkling Shiraz. (But it’s just as well because if I did she wouldn’t
have been capable of driving, that’s my excuse and I am sticking to it!) Our
destination is the Grand Bar and
Brassiere which has an
excellent restaurant and thanks to my mate Tom who owns a local pub, we have
been given the privilege of bringing our own wine.
When we arrive and start extracting Riedels to the amazed
look of the locals, the waitress informs us that the “wine” glasses that are
already on the table are for water. Now that’s good service. Lyne has a couple
of eating disorders (she is a vegetarian and a siliac not to mention a general
pain in the arse when it comes to feeding which may explain why she is as thin
as a bean shoot) and the waiter does a great job in finding something that she
can and will eat. The orders have been taken, the bread is on the table and the
glasses are loaded. Time for bottle one which was one Brian brought so I have
to go to work and complete the tasting note.
Mystery Bottle One –
The wine has a voluptuous (just as well it’s not a lady I was describing as
I would have been in trouble) …. nose, in fact its
massive, almost as big as Cyrano de Bergerac’s showing lifted big berry fruits
and a fair wack of menthol. It’s fully integrated with very smooth tannins,
youthful acid, deeply seated persistent fruit and tastes of blackcurrant,
liquorice and a minty finish. It’s still a baby and as we drank the wine he
tannins continued to gain weight as they emerged leading to a drying long
finish. The wine was rated as Excellent.
The first option was 90, 92 or 94. I guessed 90. One out of
one right (can I stop now please, it’s nice to quit whilst you are ahead!)
Second option is Yarra Valley,
Central Victoria or Clare. No way it was a Yarra, it
seemed too big to be a Central Victorian from 1990 and the tell tale menthol on
the nose and mint on the plate made Clare a good bet, and it was! (I really do
need to quit now.) Option three was Cabernet, Shiraz
or a Cabernet Blend. The blackcurrant was typical Cabernet but the liquorice
made me guess Cabernet Blend.
The wine was unveiled as a 1990 Wendouree Cabernet Malbec</font> and
was an excellent way to start the proceedings.
The starters arrived and the food was superbly presented,
perfectly cooked and very tasty. Could not fault any of them, even Lynne’s
rabbit food.
With the starters we hit Mystery Bottle Two and
as it was one selected, it was Brian’s turn to write the tasting note which is
as follows:-
Colour – Deep Red Crimson
Nose – Initially heaps of dusty oak, very astringent,
coconut oak. After three hours less dusty, oak less prominent and softer.
Blackcurrants, hints of chocolate, ripe raspberries, slight earthiness and
truffles.
Palate – Initially dominated by oak tannins and acid. After
three hours, softer richer, fruit jumping through the oak, dark berries, long
middle palate and finish. Rated as Excellent, I will be a gentleman (for once
in my life) by not mentioning Brian’s option performance here (grin). The wine was unveiled as Yalumba 1992 The Reserve</font> , a blend
of Shiraz and Cabernet with the
Coonawarra cabernet showing dominance.
The waitress who cleared our plats away was wearing a
tailored shirt with the Grand Hotel and the Yalumba Wine logos. I held up the
remaining third of a bottle of the Yalumba 92 The
Reserve and suggest she may wish to try it (meaning a glass.) She whisked it
out, thanked me and the bottle was never to be seen again. Now my gaff may not
have been so bad had Lynne not decided that she really liked the wine and
wanted more of it. (Excreta adnorsium quantum variant as they say in the
classics. – Always in the poo, only the depth varies.)
Time for <b>Mystery
Bottle Number Three</b> which was Brian’s second
bottle, so I had the honours with the tasting notes.
This wine was interesting in that the nose was muted and
didn’t show much other than a soft intensity but the palate was totally
different. The wine had great fruit intensity and extraction. The tannins were
very subtle, soft and seamless but were still able to provide a drying finish
to the wine. The taste was all sweet black cherries with a contrasting bitter
dark chocolate with tobacco on the tail end. Another wine that was Rated as
Excellent. In the options department I did reasonably, guessing it was a 92,
that it was central Victorian but because of the black cherry (almost
blackcurrant) flavour and the subtle French Oak, I incorrectly guessed a
Cabinet. It was unveiled as a
1992 Dalwhinnie Shiraz and it was a far better example of this wine than we
tried together almost a year ago at a Dalwhinnie
vertical. No wonder David Jones (the winemaker) thinks it is one of his best
ever wines.
At this point the main courses arrive. Lynne’s difficult
order was presented with perfection which is just as well as otherwise I would
never have heard the end of it. Brian and I being red bigots both ordered the
Duck Confit to go with the last wine which I could guarantee was not going to
be a Pinot. We taste the wine and the duck together and I say “I don’t know why
people insist on drinking Pinot with duck, this is a lovely combination.”
Brian responded, “They only order the duck to try and make
the Pinot take better.” Red bastardry (I mean bigotry) can be such fun.
As I brought Mystery
Bottle Number Four it was Brian’s turn to make
the tasting note and here is what he said.
Colour – Dense dark rich red.
Nose – rich, fragrant right from opening, plums and prunes,
touch of VA but in control. Integrated secondary flavours showing.
Palate – more plums and prunes, rich viscous and seamless.
Lingers, at its peak, HEADONISTIC,
not a lot of chocolate. Rated
as Outstanding, it was the wine of the night and was unveiled as a Magpie Estate 1994The Malcolm which was a very limited wine made by Rolf Binder of
Veritas. <b>You did good Rolf! </b>
This
was a stunner.
Time for the desert order and the final wine of the night, a
Campbells Gold Classic Rutherglen Tokay which went
perfectly with our Brules. We bid Lynne a good night and the rest of us went
back to my place and crashed in our beds.
Sunday morning we were all up bright and early and in good
spirits, but I can’t work out why no one wanted any Billy Goat Frog Bubbles
with their bagels and lox at 9.00 am.
At long last, I had acquitted myself well in the options
game and presented the wine of the night, it’s only taken me about three years
to do it. Lynne is still speaking to me, Marion
forgot to take the home grown tomatoes Brian and Andrea brought for her (I am
now swimming in them) so everything is normal and it should be. Thanks to my good
friends for making this a great weekend. Good food and great wine are nice, but
without friends to enjoy the experience, it’s a hollow experience.
Cheers
Ric ©
Copyright © Ric Einstein 2003