Hunting Season

Hunting Season (29 July)

The release of the 2008 edition of James Halliday’s Companion has provoked a feeding frenzy of deranged and deluded wine hunters all out to bag the big trophy. The animal they are after is the Bremerton 2004 Old Adam Shiraz, which rated 97 points along with the 2002 Grange and Hill of Grace.

“Where can it be found” has been asked on the wine forums, and many bottle shops have been deluged with enquires from desperate hunters looking to snare a bottle or twelve.

The Bremerton 2004 Old Adam Shiraz note reads, “ Amazingly vivid purple-red; liquorice, blackberry, plum, spice and pepper are all present in roughly equal proportions on both bouquet and palate, and there are sufficient tannins to provide all the structure needed; oak is the hidden note. To 2024 $38.

Contrast that tasting note to the Hill of Grace 2002. Holding its hue well; fragrant black fruits with touches of liquorice and spice run through the bouquet, with oak in the background. The medium-bodied palate is feline and focused; very long, finishing with exceptionally fine-grained tannins. Harmonious and elegant, there is no intrusion what so ever from the alcohol; effortless power. To 2035 $550.

When I read those two tasting notes, I am able to glean a much better picture on the HoG, and pricing aside, the HoG looks significantly more attractive than the Old Adam.

Halliday does not dish out 97 point ratings with gay abandon. Excluding fortified, only 10 wines out of over 7,000 reviewed achieved this distinguished level. The Shiraz scores were listed on page 31 of the companion. Only three Shiraz were rated 97 points. On the facing page (30) there were three wines that were also rated 97 points. So one would have to ask why the frenzy for the Old Adam, and why the trophy hunters were not tracking the other 97 point wines with equal enthusiasm.

There are a number of reasons. Firstly the three wines listed on page 30 were for Pinot Noir. Consumers seeking out high-quality Pinot Noir are generally sophisticated and knowledgeable wine drinkers; most are perfectly capable of making up their own minds, and don't need to be told what is good. High-quality Pinot is like betting on a horse race. Regular punters are aware of the odds; they know the track history and conditions, and are well versed in the contestants’ achievements and failures.

Speaking about punters, if anyone was going to punt on a wine hoping to turn a quick profit, chances are they would do it with an Australian Shiraz, not an Australian Pinot Noir, or Cabernet blend. If they were chasing a trophy wine to drink, as Shiraz is the most popular red wine in Australia today, it's odds on they would be chasing Shiraz. And this leads to the second reason.

The most important factor behind the frenzy is the grouping of the Old Adam with both Grange and Hill of Grace. In Australia, Grange has an aura and a history that is second to none, but serious wine aficionados are aware that Hill of Grace can be equally as good. By associating the Old Adam with the two icons, in the hunters’ mind it has elevated the Old Adam’s standing to a level that is out of all rational proportion.

Both the 2002 Grange and Hill of Grace were also awarded 97 points by Jeremy Oliver and unarguably both are iconic wines. I have not tasted the Old Adam, so I don't know exactly how good it is and whilst it has won four gold medals, it is also won silver and bronze. Halliday’s tasting note doesn't look like a 97 point wine to me.

Unfortunately these hunters don’t realise that a wine rating is nothing more than one person's opinion on one particular day. It is not holy writ that has been issued from upon high. There are forty two Shiraz listed that achieved at 96 points, many of which are in the same pricing category as the Old Adam. If the Old Adam was included in a blind line up with some of the other forty two wines and the other two 97 pointers, does anyone reading this seriously think that any of the trophy hunters would be able to pick out the Old Adam, the Grange and the Hill of Grace successfully?

Trophy hunting wine in this fashion is totally irrational. It’s a pity the trophy hunters don't put as much energy into trying to expand their wine knowledge as they waste trying to track down this latest vinous leprechaun.

Feel free to submit your comments!

From: John Moore

07/31/2007 18:24:04 Ric,

I have been reading your e-mail newletters with great relish every time I receive one. This last paragraph you write above is one of the most absolutely true comments I have EVER heard from any knowledgable wine drinker/writer/critic.

Please keep up writing the incredibly good articles you do.

John Moore (Chicago, IL, USA)

From: Peter

08/01/2007 20:08:51 If you offered me a case of the old Adam @ $38 a bottle I would take it! I discovered a long time ago that some of the wines I enjoy most never get reviewed or receive medals, which makes me thing that there is a fair amount of elitist bullshit in the whole business.

From: Victor Ng

08/03/2007 01:56:22 I think James Halliday wine companion is more interested in covering as many winery as possible. His tasting notes are rather brief compare to those written by Jeremy Oliver. For me JH wine companion is more useful for checking wineries background information.

From: KC

08/03/2007 19:39:46 I agree with most of your comments, except those that assume the people chasing this wine are ignorant or stupid. I would track it down (if it were available) because I'd like to try a highly rated wine at a reasonable price, recommended by a respected and knowledgeable wine writer.

Believing that in an exceptional year a newer producer (who incidentally, consistently makes great wines) can make an exceptional wine is no more foolish than believing that Grange, Hill of Grace, Premier Cru Burgundy or Aussie cult wines are really worth what they sell for. Reputation and unattainability are the key factors here; wine writers like Parker and Oliver have fuelled the hyperbole over the Icon wines as much as they are responsible for creating frenzies over new comers like Bremerton.

The real shame is that by next vintage, Australian and international demand will drive the price of the Old Adam beyond the reach of most genuine wine lovers.

From: TORB

08/03/2007 23:57:55 KC,

I don&'t believe I said anyone was "ignorant or stupid" although the behaviour of some of the trophy hunters may be irrational. Its a subtle but important difference.

Nothing wrong with seeking out "highly rated wine at a reasonable price" - in fact As I mentioned above, there were 42 Shiraz that rated 96 points that would not have attracted anything like the same frenzy.

You also state "wine writers like Parker and Oliver have fuelled the hyperbole over the Icon wines as much as they are responsible for creating frenzies over new comers like Bremerton." That may be true of Parker, but as much as I respect Oliver, he does not have that much clout in the market.

Finally, if the Old Adam price rockets with the next release and they don't win a squillion medals and get much praise from the pros, the wine will languish on the shelf and the brand will become a one hit wonder, like so many others that have gone before it.

From: Leon

08/21/2007 07:42:01 I work in retail. We stocked the 04 Old Adam. We sold it all to one gent three months ago. We replaced it with another $30-$40 trophy/gold/blue gold/silver/bronze shiraz. Of the roughly three hundred (an underestimate) enquiries we've had, only a handful have taken no for an answer, believed that we didn't have a hoard out the back, and said "You don't have any of Bremerton's other wines do you?"

Does anyone remember the 05 Mr. Riggs that was 1 point below Grange last year? We had ample stock of that and once the hype died down, we still have 4 units left. Would anyone want it now?

	Snippet
Sydney Time Copyright © Ric Einstein 2008	Hunting Season (29 July) The release of the 2008 edition of James Halliday’s Companion has provoked a feeding frenzy of deranged and deluded wine hunters all out to bag the big trophy. The animal they are after is the Bremerton 2004 Old Adam Shiraz, which rated 97 points along with the 2002 Grange and Hill of Grace. “Where can it be found” has been asked on the wine forums, and many bottle shops have been deluged with enquires from desperate hunters looking to snare a bottle or twelve. The Bremerton 2004 Old Adam Shiraz note reads, “ Amazingly vivid purple-red; liquorice, blackberry, plum, spice and pepper are all present in roughly equal proportions on both bouquet and palate, and there are sufficient tannins to provide all the structure needed; oak is the hidden note. To 2024 $38. Contrast that tasting note to the Hill of Grace 2002. Holding its hue well; fragrant black fruits with touches of liquorice and spice run through the bouquet, with oak in the background. The medium-bodied palate is feline and focused; very long, finishing with exceptionally fine-grained tannins. Harmonious and elegant, there is no intrusion what so ever from the alcohol; effortless power. To 2035 $550. When I read those two tasting notes, I am able to glean a much better picture on the HoG, and pricing aside, the HoG looks significantly more attractive than the Old Adam. Halliday does not dish out 97 point ratings with gay abandon. Excluding fortified, only 10 wines out of over 7,000 reviewed achieved this distinguished level. The Shiraz scores were listed on page 31 of the companion. Only three Shiraz were rated 97 points. On the facing page (30) there were three wines that were also rated 97 points. So one would have to ask why the frenzy for the Old Adam, and why the trophy hunters were not tracking the other 97 point wines with equal enthusiasm. There are a number of reasons. Firstly the three wines listed on page 30 were for Pinot Noir. Consumers seeking out high-quality Pinot Noir are generally sophisticated and knowledgeable wine drinkers; most are perfectly capable of making up their own minds, and don't need to be told what is good. High-quality Pinot is like betting on a horse race. Regular punters are aware of the odds; they know the track history and conditions, and are well versed in the contestants’ achievements and failures. Speaking about punters, if anyone was going to punt on a wine hoping to turn a quick profit, chances are they would do it with an Australian Shiraz, not an Australian Pinot Noir, or Cabernet blend. If they were chasing a trophy wine to drink, as Shiraz is the most popular red wine in Australia today, it's odds on they would be chasing Shiraz. And this leads to the second reason. The most important factor behind the frenzy is the grouping of the Old Adam with both Grange and Hill of Grace. In Australia, Grange has an aura and a history that is second to none, but serious wine aficionados are aware that Hill of Grace can be equally as good. By associating the Old Adam with the two icons, in the hunters’ mind it has elevated the Old Adam’s standing to a level that is out of all rational proportion. Both the 2002 Grange and Hill of Grace were also awarded 97 points by Jeremy Oliver and unarguably both are iconic wines. I have not tasted the Old Adam, so I don't know exactly how good it is and whilst it has won four gold medals, it is also won silver and bronze. Halliday’s tasting note doesn't look like a 97 point wine to me. Unfortunately these hunters don’t realise that a wine rating is nothing more than one person's opinion on one particular day. It is not holy writ that has been issued from upon high. There are forty two Shiraz listed that achieved at 96 points, many of which are in the same pricing category as the Old Adam. If the Old Adam was included in a blind line up with some of the other forty two wines and the other two 97 pointers, does anyone reading this seriously think that any of the trophy hunters would be able to pick out the Old Adam, the Grange and the Hill of Grace successfully? Trophy hunting wine in this fashion is totally irrational. It’s a pity the trophy hunters don't put as much energy into trying to expand their wine knowledge as they waste trying to track down this latest vinous leprechaun. Feel free to submit your comments! From: John Moore 07/31/2007 18:24:04 Ric, I have been reading your e-mail newletters with great relish every time I receive one. This last paragraph you write above is one of the most absolutely true comments I have EVER heard from any knowledgable wine drinker/writer/critic. Please keep up writing the incredibly good articles you do. John Moore (Chicago, IL, USA) From: Peter 08/01/2007 20:08:51 If you offered me a case of the old Adam @ $38 a bottle I would take it! I discovered a long time ago that some of the wines I enjoy most never get reviewed or receive medals, which makes me thing that there is a fair amount of elitist bullshit in the whole business. From: Victor Ng 08/03/2007 01:56:22 I think James Halliday wine companion is more interested in covering as many winery as possible. His tasting notes are rather brief compare to those written by Jeremy Oliver. For me JH wine companion is more useful for checking wineries background information. From: KC 08/03/2007 19:39:46 I agree with most of your comments, except those that assume the people chasing this wine are ignorant or stupid. I would track it down (if it were available) because I'd like to try a highly rated wine at a reasonable price, recommended by a respected and knowledgeable wine writer. Believing that in an exceptional year a newer producer (who incidentally, consistently makes great wines) can make an exceptional wine is no more foolish than believing that Grange, Hill of Grace, Premier Cru Burgundy or Aussie cult wines are really worth what they sell for. Reputation and unattainability are the key factors here; wine writers like Parker and Oliver have fuelled the hyperbole over the Icon wines as much as they are responsible for creating frenzies over new comers like Bremerton. The real shame is that by next vintage, Australian and international demand will drive the price of the Old Adam beyond the reach of most genuine wine lovers. From: TORB 08/03/2007 23:57:55 KC, I don&'t believe I said anyone was "ignorant or stupid" although the behaviour of some of the trophy hunters may be irrational. Its a subtle but important difference. Nothing wrong with seeking out "highly rated wine at a reasonable price" - in fact As I mentioned above, there were 42 Shiraz that rated 96 points that would not have attracted anything like the same frenzy. You also state "wine writers like Parker and Oliver have fuelled the hyperbole over the Icon wines as much as they are responsible for creating frenzies over new comers like Bremerton." That may be true of Parker, but as much as I respect Oliver, he does not have that much clout in the market. Finally, if the Old Adam price rockets with the next release and they don't win a squillion medals and get much praise from the pros, the wine will languish on the shelf and the brand will become a one hit wonder, like so many others that have gone before it. From: Leon 08/21/2007 07:42:01 I work in retail. We stocked the 04 Old Adam. We sold it all to one gent three months ago. We replaced it with another $30-$40 trophy/gold/blue gold/silver/bronze shiraz. Of the roughly three hundred (an underestimate) enquiries we've had, only a handful have taken no for an answer, believed that we didn't have a hoard out the back, and said "You don't have any of Bremerton's other wines do you?" Does anyone remember the 05 Mr. Riggs that was 1 point below Grange last year? We had ample stock of that and once the hype died down, we still have 4 units left. Would anyone want it now? Copyright © Ric Einstein 20077