Dan Philips of The Grateful Palate (TGP) was a trailblazer.
Phillips is the one US importer who can probably be credited with being more
responsible for getting boutique and high end Australian wine into the US market
than any of his competitors. In the early days, he did a phenomenally good job
of selecting wines that would appeal to Robert Parker and getting them
under his nose. The resulting high scores caused a tidal wave of popularity for
high end Australian wine in the US. The wines Philips imported helped capture
the imagination of the top end US consumer market. Initially, Australian
producers were happy because they had a new, lucrative market for their wines,
US consumers were happy because they were able to secure the urinal bragging
rights for that weeks fashion item, and Dan was laughing all the way to the
bank.
In those early days, when I saw some of the prices being charged for many of
these Australian wines in the US, from my perspective, price gouging was rampant
and someone, or some people, were doing extremely well with these products. I
was guilty of calling The Grateful Palate, The Greedy Pirate. There were
two schools of thought. The first was typical of most American (and some
Australian) consumers; who cares? The market sets the price in a free enterprise
economy. The second school had two concerns. Some consumers were not happy with
the prices they were being charged, especially when they saw how much those same
wines cost in Oz. However the most concerning issue was with the producers who
were worried about the longer term effect theses prices may have on their
Australian brands. The producer has no legal right to control the end price of
their product once it has left their hands, and its doubly difficult when its
going to a foreign country. However, if the brand is to be correctly positioned
for the long term, the distributor and the producer have to work together to
ensure its correct, longer term positioning. In the early days, this did not
always happen, and whilst the market ruled, and some people got rich, it was
often at the expense of the brands positioning.
The first big blowups occurred when Rolf Binder from Veritas Wines
separated from TGP. The falling out of was publicly debated on the Mark
Squires Forum. It was an interesting situation to watch, because clearly one
of the players was not being entirely truthful about the separation and was
basically caught out telling porky pies. That was the first of many wineries
that moved away from TGP. In those early days, most of the ones that I spoke to
after they departed, basically told me they left for pretty much the same
reason. They didn't like the positioning of their product in the US market. The
list of players that at one time had been associated with TGP that is no longer
associated with them, for whatever reason, is lengthy. For the record, however
it should be noted that a number of the original players, like Greenock Creek, Trevor Jones, and Burge Family Winemakers, are still
with Philips to this day.
Brands will always move in and out of portfolios but TGP seemed to have more
movement than any other, but that may be because they have a large number of
brands; but not as many as it was a little while ago. In 2004 they had
approximately seventy brands, and their web site currently lists close to
fifty, although some of those have departed, but TGP still has stock, hence
their listing.
The news was broken (incorrectly) on Parkers Forum that TGP had walked
away from all brands except those in which they had a direct financial interest,
like their own R brand.
The matter was set straight in a communication to their distributors. Phillips
explained that a number of wineries, for different reasons, had severed ties
with TGP. Some had left of their own accord and some had been dumped.
The brands that were no longer in the portfolio were:- Betts & Scholl, Cape
D’Estaing, Clos Clare, Digger’s Bluff, Geoff Weaver, Gibson, Henry’s Drive,
Hutton Vale, Lashmar, Longhop, Lunar Wines, Mclean’s Farm, Nurioopta High
School, Old Plains, Oliver’s Taranga, RBJ, Rockford, Rusden Wines, Scarpantoni,
Shirvington, Silesian, Teusner, Torzi Mathews, Troll Creek, Two Way Range and
Wild Duck Creek.
They are now left with approximately thirty brands including their own R
wines.
When Phillips announced these departures, in his communication he said,
“Some departed months ago, others in the past few days or weeks, but all have
been exiled to wine Siberia and will no longer enjoy life in the
Distributor Collective of Fine Wine at The Grateful Palate.”
The letter closed with
“Fine Wine Distributors all over the world unite to defeat Greedy Evil Wine
Invaders and their dogs.”
The second comment is completely meaningless and tasteless. The first is
obnoxious, completely insensitive, and the height of arrogance. Perhaps The
Greedy Pirate should be renamed the Graceless Peddler?