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                 Sydney Time

  

            

           Copyright © Ric Einstein 2009

 

 

 

This Weeks BS Alert  (13 August)

 

I am getting a fed up with the amount of bovine manure floating around the wine industry. In the past, I have “outed” a number of players in the business for all sorts of shady practices and this week I have a few more that need to be outed. This behaviour does not do the industry any good; in fact it causes long term damage.

 

Today I received an email from the Summer Hill Wine shop offering their latest premium releases. This mob is a pretty reputable outfit that specialises in fine wine and know how to look after their customers. On average, their prices are reasonable and their marketing understated, and within the bounds of normality. Their “recommended retail” in many cases are a little high, but not out of the bounds of reality, and their “special prices” are competitive. One wine that caught my eye was the 2006 Majella Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon which was being offered for $28.50 but had a recommended retail price of $38. Most places are selling it from about $28.50 (which is close to the price direct from the winery,) to about $36. The highest price shown on Wine-searcher was $34.15!

 

The reason I noticed the Majella prices was that I was gobsmacked when I saw an advert for the same wine yesterday. It was advertised on the front cover of the latest Kemenys Catalogue as one of their ‘Top 3 Reds for Winter.’ The selling price was $27.99 which is good; I doubt you will find it for less. However the Kemenys recommended retail price was $45. Forty five bucks! Give us all a break. How did they come up with this price? Has the current vintage of this wine ever sold at Kemenys for $45? Has the current vintage ever sold anywhere for $45? Frankly I sincerely doubt it. Kemenys “dreamed up” this recommended retail price to make their own price look better, but that $45 price is completely disingenuous, misleading and frankly complete bovine manure. 

 

Speaking of bovine manure, I came across some really smelly stuff today. In a blurb put out by the Gurdies Winery that claims to be “Australia’s leading producer of clean, low preservative, fruit flavoured wines” amongst other things it states (in answer to the problem if TCA), “Wineries responded to this problem by using synthetic corks by the millions.” Notice it did not state that they went for screwcaps, which is far more popular than synthetic corks, especially in Australia when a huge percentage of wines are sealed under screwcaps.

 

The blurb goes on to state, “Anecdotal evidence says up to 8% of bottles had cork taint a few years ago. Now, that’s down to below 2% which is great news.” Very smelly bovine manure! When sampling wines for his 2009 Companion, James Halliday found that over 7% had cork related problems. Now who are you going to believe? Halliday or Gurdies Winery?

 

They also go on to give cellaring recommendations that are aimed at the novice. There are a zillion disclaimers but they have listed recommended ageing windows for various types of wine. Cabernet Sauvignon is recommended to cellar for 3-10 years. I guess no one produces drink-now Cabernet. Shiraz has a recommendation of 2-5 years. Really! I guess they must drink different Shiraz to most wine lovers I know.

 

In the next section of the blurb, under the heading of “Clean and odour free” it states, “Strong outside smells can find their way through the cork and contaminate your wine.” Well that completely explains why cork failure is now only 2%. Not!

 

But wait, we are not finished. “mice and insects will live in just about any rubbish. They’ll chew the corks…”

 

Chew the corks? If the wine is stored in boxes, they would chew the boxes way before they would chew the corks. The average wine consumer should be just a little more concerned about other things that could ruin wine before they worry about mice having a quick feed on their wine corks. Things like dropping bottles when moving wine would be a far more common a problem.

 

The rocket scientist advice has not yet finished. “Finally you should never store any fruit, vegetables or cheeses near your wines or anything else that is likely to ferment. Anything that has its own yeasts has no place in your wine cellar.”

 

Swab the walls of any winery cellar and I guarantee you will find a plague of indigenous yeasts. The wineries don’t worry about their cork sealed, museum bottle stock being infected by the yeasts, but these guys think you should be concerned.

 

The best line from this wine is the opening lines on their website.

 

A few simple rules about wine

There's a lot of rubbish written about wines.”

 

No doubt about that comment. It’s the truest thing on their website. It’s just ironic they are writing it!

 

My third concern relates to credibility and transparency. I recently received some wine from Mike Press Winery; a new one that has rapidly make a big reputation for the value of its wines. I tasted them and wrote my tasting notes. In the initial email I received from the person sending me the wine, who was “doing some PR/business consulting for the winery” they mentioned gold medals and Campbell Mattinson’s review.

 

I was not bowled over by them especially the Merlot and suspected it may have possibly been a dud bottle, so I looked at the original email. I then checked out what Campbell had to say about the wines. What surprised me was that under the readers comments section, there were tasting notes for the wines from the guy who had sent them to me.

 

I don’t know if Campbell knew that this person was “doing some PR/business consulting for the winery” but knowing Campbell as I do, frankly I doubt it. However, it is totally unethical to post tasting notes in that fashion and not disclose the conflict of interest. Even if the notes were posted prior to the business relationship being confirmed, once it was a done deal, the notes should have been either altered to reflect the commercial interest, or better still, removed.

 

The reason I have not named the person involved is because he is new to the business and it was probably done out of naivety. However this type of practice is unacceptable and does the industry no good.

 

And just when I thought this subject was done, I received an email this morning from someone calling herself Kelli Wallace. Here is what the email said…

 

“Hello Torb Wine!

 

I just wanted to let you know that I really enjoy your site, it is truly informative and a favorite of mine.  I thought you would like to share with your loyal readers a new gem in the wine community called Hope Wine, which donates 50% of its proceeds to charities such as; the Chardonnay/Breast Cancer, Cabernet/Autism, Merlot/AIDS, Zinfandel/The Troops, and Savignon Blanc/The Planet. 

Hope Wine is inspirational, positive, and relevant, I am sure you will agree.  The great news is that not only does the wine taste amazing, it has a meaningful purpose at a reasonable price. I'm loving the Merlot! 

 

I have included a few pictures of the wine that I found on line, and think it would be a great fit for your site!  Please help spread the word, and buy a "case for a cure."

 

Visit their website at www.hopewine.com, and taste for yourself whilst helping others!

Thanks Kelli Wallace”

 

The cause may well be admirable, but this email under the guise of being from someone who finds TORBWine a favourite of theirs, is nothing but SPAM. Any one who is a regular reader of my site would not address me as Torb Wine. Secondly, they would know the site is dedicated to Australian wine, and does not promote or feature wine from the US. Finally, what genuine independent wine lover, when recommending wine to someone attaches label shots that are used by the winery to promote their wines? No one; well no one who is genuine! So this is pure shill. I have no idea if its from the winery, one of its employees or one of its supporters, but which ever way you look at it, the email is pure bovine manure.  Either someone has misguided ideas about how to support the charities involved, or the winery is unethical.  (And she loves Merlot! Nuff said?)

 

If the wine industry loses its credibility, it will lose one of its greatest assets. Unfortunately some of those in the business of flogging wine may be looking after their own bottom line, but they are doing serious long term damage to the industry as a whole.


 

Feel free to submit your comments!

From Murray Almond: Thursday 14 August

“Anecdotal evidence says up to 8% of bottles had cork taint a few years ago. Now, that’s down to below 2% which is great news.”

Ah Ric, you forget the joys of statistics.

Just say a few years ago 98 out of 100 bottles were sealed in cork, your get your 'average' 8 bottles, which is 8%. (don't worry that it's 8.8% of cork-sealed bottles, that's just detail).

Nowadays 25 out of 100 are sealed in cork (the rest in screwcap, DIAM, plastic etc). You're now only encountering 2 tainted out of the 100, there's your 2%!!!

Point irrefutably proven!!

TORB: You are a bad man Muz!!

 

From Adair Durie: Thursday 14 August

Hi Ric, (or should I call you TORB Wine)

Just a quick email to let you know that I am loving your Wine BS Alerts over the past few weeks/months. I doubt you are making many friends in the industry… but you would definitely be making more wine consumer friends.

And good judgment on the Mike Press BS. I doubt that Mike and Judy would knowingly do anything to affect their credibility (although I wish they never released their 2008 Chardonnay despite Campbell’s 87 points – not that they would have sent it to you I hope – I told them that I would be lucky to give it 80 points).

Thanks and keep going.

 

TORB Comments:

I tried to contact Campbell to discuss this a couple of day before this went live, but he was away. My assumption that he didn't know about the business relationship was correct, and as soon as he found out about it, the notes were removed.

 

From Ryan M: Friday 15 August

Adair wrote, "Just a quick email to let you know that I am loving your Wine BS Alerts over the past few weeks/months. I doubt you are making many friends in the industry… but you would definitely be making more wine consumer friends."

Re: Not making friends in the industry?

Ric is an independent observer, ousting the shonks.

Entertaining, Independent, Nothing held back, Informative, Well Researched.

I see it differently, I think that the only people who would be upset with Ric are those that are screwing up and getting caught. Those doing the right thing in the industry would be most pleased with an independent observer exposing occurrences such as this.

Who would you rather be "friends" with?
 

 

 

Copyright © Ric Einstein 2008

 

 

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