According to the article, "We are at a critical point," says Daniel Berger, a wine marketer in Paris. "We run the risk of seeing our infinite diversity give way to chemical processes." "Where do we go from here?" Berger asks. "Will we see the small producers in France and Italy stand by and watch the ‘death of real wine’ in favour of beverages lacking all humanity?" ...

Brian then comments, "And the illustrious vineyard whose cultural loss is so bemoaned?

'... the property has been in the family since the days of Jean-Claude's great-grandfather, producing wine that for several years has ended up in the Mouton Cadet blend ...'"

Mouton Cadet is about as good as Banrock Station or Long Flat Red.